Included Parts:

• Fully GM assembled long block
• Chrome Steel Valve Covers with Chevy Bowtie Logo
• Oil pump, pick-up, and oil pan
• Front timing cover
• Passenger Side RH Oil Dipstick and Tube
• This block is drilled and tapped for clutch linkage.

INSTALLATION NOTES:

• Requires externally balanced flexplate for automatic transmission; or externally balanced flywheel for manual transmission.
• Has right-side oil dipstick
• Designed for pre-1976 street vehicles or any off-road vehicle
• Not intended for marine applications
• Spark Plugs: R44LTS

This block is drilled and tapped for clutch linkage.

Engine Break-In Procedure

Use conventional or break-in oil (non-synthetic) for the first oil change, be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system with an engine priming tool. 

Engines with flat tappet hydraulic cams only - Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. This is critical to breaking in the camshaft.

Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.  Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3000 RPM (40 to 50 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. Run a couple of hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

Let the engine cool and change the oil and filter using conventional (non-synthetic) oil and check the coolant level, top off if necessary. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.  Change the oil and oil filter again using conventional (non-synthetic) oil.  Keep an eye on the oil level during the first thousand or so miles.

It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation. 

809-19420878 supersedes 19431609, 19417364, 19417364 and 19210007