Brake Lines, Fittings, & Hoses

Adding a performance brake line kit to your vehicle will improve brake performance. Stainless steel braided hoses with sleeves and Teflon liners produce a more responsive brake system as they swell much less than factory rubber hoses. This provides a firmer and more responsive brake pedal.

Stainless steel brake line kits have a much longer life than original steel or galvanized versions often found on factory vehicles. This creates a more reliable brake system with less chance for leaks.

There are several ways to bleed brake lines (with or without power brakes). One process requires two people to complete while others can be performed with one person. In all cases, you must ensure that there is enough brake fluid in the master cylinder and monitor the fluid level in it throughout the bleeding process. The original method is to have one person at one of the calipers (for vehicles with disc brakes) or wheel cylinders while another is in the vehicle. The person in the vehicle pumps the brakes three-four times and holds the brake pedal down while the other person opens the bleeder to purge out air with either a brake line wrench or socket. When this happens, the brake pedal will drop further. The bleeder is then closed and the person in the car can then release the brake pedal so that the bleeder valve doesn't draw in air. The process repeats until the air is visibly out of each bleeder and fresh fluid is coming out of the bleeder screw. Another brake bleeder option is a one-man brake bleeder. This works by using a small bottle filled with a small amount of brake fluid, connected to the bleeder via a hose that acts as a straw in the bottom of the bottle. The bleeder is opened. One person can then slowly pump the brakes. The air (as well as brake fluid), pushes out of the bleeder, through the hose and into the bottom of the brake bleeder bottle when the brake pedal is pushed down. When the brake pedal is released, brake fluid is drawn back into the hose from the bottle bottom and back into the caliper or wheel cylinder, preventing air from being drawn back with it. After several cycles, all of the air will be pushed out with only fluid remaining. The bleeder is then closed and the rest of the calipers or wheel cylinders are bled with the same process. Another option is a pressurized bleeder. With this version, a cover is secured to the top of the master cylinder and a pressurized bottle is filled with a couple quarts of brake fluid. The bottle is pressurized with a hand pump. A person then goes to a bleeder on a caliper or wheel cylinder and opens it, the pressure from the bleeder pushes fluid through the system along with air out of the bleeder where it is collected with a tube and catch bottle. The bleeding process is done when clean fluid is observed and air is no longer coming out of the bleeder. A final option is a vacuum operated bleeder. This works in the opposite way of the pressurized bleeder. A vacuum pump is attached to the bleeder and fluid and air is drawn out and into a catch bottle.

To bend a brake line correctly, a tubing bender is required. This tool will properly shape the line without causing a kink or damage to it. Most of these types of tools work by putting the line into them and then gently applying pressure to make the bend at the angle needed.

To replace a brake line, you will first remove it from the vehicle. Depending on the type of male or female adapters on either end of the line, a different tool may be required. When disconnecting the line, collect the brake fluid that will escape from the loosened brake line fittings. Once the line is removed, the replacement line can be installed (either purchased pre-bent or custom bent by you). After tightening up the hydraulic brake line fittings, the brakes will need to be bled and then the vehicle brake system safely tested.

When flaring brake lines, whether stainless steel or galvanized, first make sure the end of the tubing you are flaring is cut square with a tubing cutter to prevent the chances of a leak. After the end is cut evenly, ensure there are not any burrs with a de-burring tool. Then chamfer the edge of the pipe per the tool instructions (example, approximately 0.25 x 45 degrees). Next, de-burr the bore of the pipe. You will then need to choose the correct punch and die for the size tube and type of flare you will be creating, typically included with the flare tool set. Be sure to slide the tubing nut on before you flare the end of the pipe to avoid having to re-flare the end. Following the instructions, flare the end of the line with the tool and create a double flare by changing the punch and repeating the process.

To replace brake hoses, first determine which tools are needed to disconnect it at both ends. If there are additional parts that need to be removed to gain access, do so. When disconnecting the brake hose, collect the brake fluid that will escape from the loosened brake line fittings adapters. After removing the hose, replace it in the reverse order. Once the new brake hose is installed, bleed the brakes and then safely test the vehicle brake system.

When plumbing a brake system, there are many brake line parts needed. One of the most important components are brake fittings. These components seal brake hoses and lines on both ends in order for the brake system to function. Fittings are either steel, stainless steel, or brass. Aluminum fittings are not recommended due to the high pressures experienced when brakes are applied. Sizes range from brake line fittings 3/16", brake line fittings 1/4", metric brake line fittings 1/4", 5/16 brake line fittings, as well as others.

A JEGS expert is ready to answer your questions and help you find the brake line or hose that you require for your street, race, or custom application..