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The Mustang II front suspension remains a top choice among hot rodders, especially for custom builds and street rods. Its compact design, wide aftermarket support, and ease of integration into various chassis make it ideal for everything from classic Fords to modern street machines. Whether you're upgrading factory components or starting a ground-up build, understanding and properly installing Mustang II upper and lower control arms is essential for achieving solid ride quality and handling performance.
In this comprehensive guide, we'll walk you through the installation process and help you choose the right control arms for your setup. We'll also cover critical measurements, torque specifications, and key differences between traditional and tubular lower control arms.
Understanding Mustang II Lower Control Arms and Their Dimensions
Mustang II lower control arms form the foundation of your front suspension system. These arms connect the front crossmember to the spindle, allowing the wheel to pivot and move with road input.
When selecting or replacing control arms, knowing your Mustang II lower control arm dimensions is key. Aftermarket options are usually designed to match OEM specifications, but some tubular variants may offer slight geometry enhancements for lowered ride heights or improved caster.
Important dimensions to check include:
- Mounting eye-to-eye length
- Bushing diameter
- Spring pocket diameter
- Ball joint taper compatibility
These measurements ensure that your Mustang II lower control arms will bolt into your existing crossmember and suspension system without modification.
Benefits of Using Mustang II Tubular Lower Control Arms
Many builders choose Mustang II tubular lower control arms when upgrading their front suspension. These arms offer several advantages over stock stamped steel units:
- Reduced Weight: Tubular arms are lighter than their OEM counterparts, improving handling response and reducing unsprung weight.
- Improved Strength: High-quality tubular arms resist flex and are often made with stronger steel alloys.
- Enhanced Geometry: Some aftermarket arms improve alignment settings by increasing positive caster and reducing bump steer.
- Sleeker Appearance: Tubular control arms often come in a powder-coated or polished finish that looks great on open-wheel builds.
If you're aiming for performance, longevity, or show-quality aesthetics, tubular Mustang II lower control arms are a smart investment.
Tools and Materials Needed: Preparation Essentials
Before diving into the installation, gather the following tools and materials:
- Jack and jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Spring compressor
- Torque wrench
- Assorted hand tools (sockets, wrenches, pliers)
- Brake caliper hanger
- Grease gun
- Welding tools (if reinforcement or fabrication is needed)
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step-by-Step Control Arm Installation Guide
Vehicle Disassembly and Inspection
- Jack up the vehicle and secure it on stands. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
- Remove wheels, brake calipers (support them safely), brake hoses, and rotors.
- Use a spring compressor to collapse the coil spring before removing the shock and compressed spring.
- Disconnect the spindle and caliper bracket. Inspect tie rods and replace if needed.
- Remove factory strut arms if equipped.
Upper Control Arm Removal
- Clean the crossmember mounting area.
- Scribe around the mounting points of the upper control arm shafts and count shim locations.
- Remove the control arms and retain the special T-bolts and nuts for reuse.
Lower Control Arm Removal and Crossmember Reinforcement
- Remove the lower control arm.
- Inspect and clean the crossmember thoroughly.
- Install mounting bolts and spacers without the control arms to test fit.
- Weld the rear spacer and gusset reinforcement securely to the crossmember.
- Allow the welds to cool fully before proceeding.
Lower Control Arm Installation
- Remove bushings and bolts from the new arm.
- Insert the long bolt through the crossmember holes (drill to 5/8" if necessary).
- Position spacers correctly, install the control arm, and hand-tighten nuts.
Upper Control Arm Installation
- Use the original T-bolts with knurled surfaces cleaned and facing the crossmember.
- Reinstall the alignment shims in their original locations.
- Torque T-bolts to 80-90 ft. lbs.
- Torque cross-shaft nuts to 65-75 ft. lbs.
Spring, Shock, and Final Assembly
- Ensure shock mounting bolts fit through shock eyelets.
- If using new shocks, keep them compressed until installed.
- Install the coil spring and lower shock mount. Torque to 40-55 ft. lbs.
- Mount the spindle and torque the lower ball joint nut to 90 ft. lbs.
- Raise the lower control arm, attach the upper ball joint, and torque to 60 ft. lbs.
- Mount the top of the shock and release compression wire. Torque to 14-26 ft. lbs.
- Grease ball joints and bushings.
- Reinstall tie rod ends and torque to 35-47 ft. lbs. Install cotter pins.
- Repack bearings and install rotor, bearings, seals, spindle washer, and nuts.
Wheel Bearing Torque Procedure
- Spin the rotor forward and torque the wheel nut to 17-25 ft. lbs.
- Back off 1/2 turn, then finger tighten to 10-15 inch-lbs and install cotter pin.
- Check for smooth rotor spin.
Brake and Wheel Final Assembly
- Torque caliper brackets and calipers to 35 ft. lbs.
- Check and torque brake hose fittings to 12-20 ft. lbs.
- Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts to specification.
- Bounce the suspension to settle bushings, then torque upper control arm to 120-180 ft. lbs.
- Check for any binding or loose hardware.
- Test brakes and confirm tire pressure before road testing.
- Schedule a professional alignment to finalize geometry settings.
How to Choose the Right Lower Control Arms for Your Mustang II
Choosing the right Mustang II lower control arms depends on:
- Vehicle Use: Daily driver, autocross, or show car
- Ride Height: Lowered cars benefit from geometry-corrected tubular arms
- Suspension Setup: Ensure compatibility with your springs, shocks, and spindles
- Budget: Stock-style replacements cost less but offer fewer benefits
Always measure your current suspension points and compare them to aftermarket control arm dimensions before purchasing.
Most Popular Mustang II Control Arms
Maintaining Your Mustang II Control Arms for Optimal Performance
Once installed, proper maintenance keeps your control arms performing like new:
- Inspect bushings and ball joints at regular service intervals
- Grease all fittings as part of routine oil changes
- Check torque specs after the first 100 miles post-installation
- Look for signs of rust, fatigue, or misalignment
Proper care ensures a smooth ride, even tire wear, and safe performance from your Mustang II front suspension.
Final Thoughts
Mustang II upper and lower control arms continue to be the go-to solution for hot rod and street rod front suspensions. Whether you're restoring a classic or building a custom cruiser, upgrading your suspension with tubular Mustang II control arms can enhance handling, ride comfort, and long-term durability.
For quality components, tools, and expert tech support, explore the selection of Mustang II suspension parts available at JEGS.com. From control arms to spindles and shocks, we’ve got what your build needs.
2 responses to “Mustang II Upper And Lower Control Arms: A Comprehensive Guide”
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Very happy with my Mustang II tubular control arms. I do have one suggestion, why not add the little tabs to the front of the lower control arm that connect to the sway bar link? The small holes the current arms have by the spring mount cannot be used for that purpose, since the steering rack and the sway bar have to be moved forward to make space for the lower control arm. I now have to buy the tabs, weld them to the lower control arm, and in doing so, ruining the powder coating finish. Many of your competitors have the arms with the tabs already welded in place.
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Hi Carlos, we really appreciate your feedback and the detailed explanation of your setup. You’re absolutely right, sway bar link tabs on the front of the lower control arms would make installation easier for builders using forward-mounted sway bars or modified suspension geometry. The current JEGS Mustang II tubular lower control arms are built to work with traditional crossmember-mounted sway bar configurations, which is why the small holes near the spring pocket are included instead of welded tabs. However, as you mentioned, when the steering rack and sway bar are relocated forward to improve clearance, those holes can’t be used effectively.
In situations like yours, adding weld-on sway bar link tabs is a solid solution, though it does mean refinishing the arms afterward. Your note about powder coat loss is completely valid, and feedback like this helps us improve future revisions of the product. I’ll make sure this suggestion is passed along to the product development team so they can review it for potential design updates.
For now, if you’d like to discuss the best tab placement or get guidance on keeping geometry correct when welding them on, please call us at 1-800-345-4545. One of our tech specialists can walk you through the ideal tab angle and spacing to make sure your suspension performs the way it should without compromising the control arm’s strength or alignment.
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