How To Choose A Torque Converter For Your Vehicle

JEGS Tech Specialist

Pete Mitchell

What Does A Torque Converter Do?

A torque converter is a key component in automatic transmissions, serving as a vital link between the engine and the transmission. Its primary function is to transfer power from the engine to the transmission while allowing the engine to continue running even when the vehicle is stationary. This is achieved through a fluid coupling mechanism. Inside the torque converter, there are two main elements: the impeller, which is connected to the engine, and the turbine, which is linked to the transmission input shaft. These elements are immersed in transmission fluid. As the engine rotates the impeller, it generates fluid movement, which in turn causes the turbine to spin, transmitting power to the transmission. Importantly, the design of a torque converter allows for a certain amount of slippage between the impeller and turbine, enabling smooth acceleration and preventing stalling. Additionally, torque converters provide a torque multiplication effect, amplifying the engine torque during initial acceleration, which is particularly beneficial for heavy loads or steep inclines.

How Does A Torque Converter Work?

When the vehicle is in “park” while the engine is running, the converter is spinning but the transmission is locked internally, preventing the transfer of power and movement to the rest of the drivetrain. When shifted into “drive”, the transmission unlocks and allows forward movement of the vehicle under power. However, the converter slips enough for the engine to continue to rotate while the brakes are applied. If the converter did not slip and the brakes were applied, the engine would die, as it could not spin the crankshaft, which would be directly connected from the flexplate to the "locked" (from depressed brake pedal) tires. Once the brake pedal is released, the vehicle begins to move with the converter still slipping some. Once the engine rpms increase, the centrifugal force inside the torque converter causes it to engage the transmission input shaft more and slippage lessens. Once the converter stall speed is reached, the converter is fully engaged (yet still with some slippage) in completely coupling the engine to the transmission. Lock-up converters, typically found in street vehicles with overdrive transmissions, will 100% lock up with no slippage between the engine and transmission. This usually happens once the vehicle is in the highest gear and at a steady speed at highway speeds, with the vehicle ECU applying electrical power to the lock-up solenoid. The additional reduction in converter slippage lowers the engine rpms and helps the transmission to stay cooler as friction and slippage cause heat, lowering transmission life. This also improves engine fuel economy and longevity.

The Torque Converter Consists Of Four Primary Components:

Cover --- the cover (also referred to as a front) is the outside half of the housing toward the engine side from the weld line. The cover serves to attach the converter to the flexplate (not flywheel, which is for manual transmissions/clutches) via flexplate bolts and contains the transmission fluid. While the torque converter cover is not actively involved in the characteristics of the performance, it is important that the cover remain rigid under stress (torsional and thrust stress and the tremendous hydraulic pressure generated by the torque converter internally.)

Turbine --- the converter turbine rides within the cover and is attached to the drivetrain via a spline fit to the input shaft of the transmission. When the turbine moves, the car moves.

Stator --- the stator can be described as the "brain" of the torque converter, although the stator is by no means the sole determiner of converter function and characteristics. The stator, which changes fluid flow between the turbine and pump, is what makes a torque converter a torque converter (multiplier) and not strictly a fluid coupler.

With the stator removed, however, it will retain none of its torque multiplying effect. In order for the stator to function properly the sprag must work as designed: (1) It must hold the stator perfectly still (locked in place) while the converter is still in stall mode (slow relative turbine speed to the impeller pump speed) and (2) allow the stator to spin with the rest of the converter after the turbine speed approaches the pump speed. This allows for more efficient and less restrictive fluid flow.

Sprag --- The sprag is a one-way mechanical clutch mounted on races and fits inside the stator while the inner race splines onto the stator support of the transmission. The torque multiplier effect means that a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission and torque converter will output more torque to the drive wheels than the engine is actually producing. This occurs while the converter is in its "stall mode" (when the turbine is spinning considerably slower than the pump) and during vehicle acceleration. Torque multiplication rapidly decreases until it reaches a ratio of 1:1 (no torque increase over crankshaft torque.) A typical torque converter will have a torque multiplication ratio in the area of 2.5:1. The main point to remember is that all properly functioning torque converters do indeed multiply torque during initial acceleration. The more drastic the change in fluid path caused by the stator from its "natural" return path, the higher the torque multiplication ratio a given converter will have. Torque multiplication does not occur with a manual transmission clutch and pressure plate; hence the need for heavy flywheels, very high numerical gear ratios, and high launch rpm. A more detailed discussion of torque multiplication can get very confusing to the layman as high multiplication ratios can be easily considered the best choice when in fact more variables must be included in the decision. Remember, the ratio is still a factor of the engine torque in the relevant range of the torque converter stall speed, i.e.: a converter with a multiplication ratio of 2.5:1 that stalls 3000 rpm will produce 500 ft.-lbs. of torque at the instance of full throttle acceleration if its coupled to an engine producing 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3000 rpm. However, if this same engine produces 300 ft.-lbs. of torque at 4000 rpm, we would be better off with a converter that stalled 4000 rpm with only a 2.0:1 torque multiplication ratio, i.e.: 300 x 2.0 = 600 ft.-lbs. at initial acceleration. Of course it would be better yet to have a 2.5:1 ratio with the 4000 rpm in this example (provided his combination still allows the suspension to work and the tires don't spin.) This is just a brief overview as the actual scenarios are endless.

Impeller pump --- the impeller pump is the outside half of the converter on the transmission side of the weld line. Inside the impeller pump is a series of longitudinal fins, which, drive the fluid around its outside diameter into the turbine, since this component is welded to the cover, which is bolted to the flywheel. The size of the torque converter (and pump) and the number and shape of the fins all affect the characteristics of the converter. If long torque converter life is an objective, it is extremely important that the fins of the impeller pump are adequately reinforced against fatigue and the outside housing does not distort under stress.

Where Is The Torque Converter Located?

The torque converter is located inside the transmission bellhousing between the engine and transmission. It is bolted to the flexplate, which is fastened to the engine crankshaft on one end. On the other side, it slides onto the splined transmission input shaft. It is protected with a dust cover (sometimes missing) typically mounted at the bottom between the engine and transmission to prevent debris from being caught in the spinning operation.

How Much Is A Torque Converter?

Torque converters can range anywhere from under $200 for a stock replacement, to thousands of dollars for an all-out race converter, which is capable of handling nitrous, supercharged, and turbocharged 1000+ horsepower engines.

What Torque Converter Do I Need?

Selecting the proper torque converter for your automatic transmission application is one of the most important decisions to make for your vehicle’s drivetrain. When selecting a torque converter there are several factors involved.

The first is the transmission type, as the torque converter needs to match the transmission. This includes the input shaft spline count, whether the transmission is a “lock-up” style or “non-lock-up” style, as well as matching the transmission configuration (for example, some Ford transmissions have “case-fill” and “pan-fill” designs requiring a different converter physical size for clearance).

The torque converter also needs to match the flexplate diameter and bolt pattern.

The next step is matching the converter to the engine’s horsepower. All aftermarket converters have a maximum horsepower rating that it has been tested to be able to handle.

Next is the anti-ballooning plate option. An anti-ballooning plate is used for applications with nitrous, turbocharged, or supercharged engines as well as transmissions equipped with a transbrake. This plate provides additional strength to the converter from the sudden increase in power created from power adders and hard launches, reducing the chances of an explosion and complete converter failure.

Finally, the correct stall speed needs selected to properly match the engine's camshaft as well as vehicle weight, tire diameter and final drive gear ratio. Too low of a stall speed and the engine will stall or have a boggy take-off. Too high of stall and loss of power will result under the stall speed as well as unnecessary heat created in the transmission. JEGS offers a wide selection of torque converters to choose from to meet your vehicle needs.

dual bolt pattern torque converter GM Chevy — The back of a dual bolt pattern torque converter fitting both GM flexplate size options

What Stall Converter Do I Need?

The general rule is to select a converter stall speed that is 400-500 rpms above the beginning of the engine camshaft’s power band. For example, if the camshaft you purchased for your engine has a power band of 2000-6000 rpms, the converter should have around 2400-2500 rpm of stall. To get an even more accurate stall speed additional engine and vehicle information is needed. For example, a big block engine tends to stall higher than a small block engine. A heavier car also will cause the converter to stall higher than a lightweight vehicle. The rear tire diameter and gear ratio also affect stall speed. A numerically higher gear ratio will cause the converter to stall less, as the vehicle takes off easier than with a numerically lower gear ratio. The same applies with a taller (causing higher stall speeds) vs smaller tires (resulting in lower stall speeds). Most converters have a stall speed range that is advertised with anywhere from 200 - 400 of rpms (for example, "2200-2400 stall"). Taking into account weight, gear ratio, and tire size will help you to determine where in that range the actual stall speed will be for your specific vehicle. If using the converter on a street vehicle that will see highway use, you need to confirm that the stall speed is below your cruising rpm. If the vehicle is cruising at 65 mph in the highest transmission gear and the engine rpms are under the stall speed, the converter is still slipping. This generates a lot of heat and wear on the converter as well as the transmission. It will also cause a slipping behavior until the engine rpm matches the stall speed. If the correct stall speed has already been confirmed, changing the rear tire diameter (using a smaller tire) or gear ratio (using a numerically higher ratio) will help to raise the rpms above the stall speed and avoid transmission component damage.

Per TCI Transmissions, "Stall speed refers to the rpm that a given torque converter (impeller) has to spin in order for it to overcome a given amount of load and begin moving the turbine. This means how fast (rpm) the torque converter must spin to generate enough fluid force on the turbine to overcome the resting inertia of the vehicle at wide open throttle. Load originates from two places. The first is from the torque imparted on the torque converter by the engine via the crankshaft. (This load varies over rpm, i.e. torque curve, and is directly affected by atmosphere, fuel and engine conditions.) The second is from inertia, the resistance of the vehicle to acceleration, which places a load on the torque converter through the drive train. This can be thought of as how difficult the drivetrain is to rotate with the vehicle at rest, and is affected by car weight, amount of gear reduction and tire size, ability of tire to stay adhered to ground, and stiffness of chassis.

While referring to the resistance of the vehicle to move while at rest, the torque converter's stall speed and much of its characteristics for a given application are also affected by the vehicle's resistance to accelerate relative to its rate of acceleration. This resistance has much to do with the rpm observed immediately after the vehicle starts moving, the amount of rpm drop observed during a gear change, and the amount of slippage in the torque converter (turbine rpm relative to impeller pump rpm.) A discussion involving how resistance to acceleration affects a torque converter involves more theory than fact and must involve all the dozens of other variables that affect rpm and slippage. The primary thing to remember about torque converter stall speed is that a particular torque converter does not have a "preset from the factory" stall speed but rather its unique design will produce a certain range of stall speeds depending on the amount of load the torque converter is exposed to. This load comes from both the torque produced by the engine and the resistance of the vehicle to move from rest. The higher this combined load the higher stall we will observe from a particular torque converter, and conversely, the lower the load, the lower the stall speed. Naturally, if the engine is not at wide open throttle we will not expect to observe as high a stall speed as we would under a wide open throttle.

Another point concerning engine torque is that we are only focusing on what we'll call the "relevant range" of the engine torque curve when discussing initial stall speed. This means if a particular torque converter chosen has a design that should produce a stall speed in a range of say 2000 to 2600 rpm given the application then we would refer to this as the relevant range of interest in the engine's torque curve for this particular torque converter. In other words, only the torque characteristics of the engine in this rpm range will affect the amount of stall speed we actually observe. If we are using a high horsepower / rpm engine that does not make much torque before 3000 rpm, it does not matter that the engine makes excellent torque over 3000 rpm if we are trying to use the torque converter in this example because its relevant range is 2000-2600 rpm and we would expect to see poor stall (2000 rpm or less) due to the poor torque produced by the engine in this range.

Too Low Of Stall Speed

If an application requires at least 3000 rpm stall and a 2000 to 2500 rpm stall range converter is used, it will normally not even provide the 2000 rpm stall. It will act very similar to the stock torque converter that was just removed. Why? Because the engine needs to operate in its optimum rpm range and since the chosen torque converter is below that range, it is not getting enough load from the crankshaft side to operate as designed. Symptoms include engine stalling when in gear at a stop, low stall speed, hesitation when going to full throttle, a "bog" when leaving from stop at wide open throttle.

Too High Of Stall Speed

This happens most often when there is not sufficient gear ratio for the converter stall range or the engine is not capable of the appropriate rpm range (too small a duration camshaft, inadequate valve springs, too low compression, etc.) Symptoms include high "revs" to pull away from stop, "marshmallow" accelerator feel when driving at part throttle, transmission and possibly engine overheating, and a pronounced engine rev when nailing the throttle from a cruising speed."

What Is The Difference In The Terms "Flash Stall" And "Foot-Brake Stall"?

Of the two measurements of torque converter stall, 'Flash Stall' is the most accurate. Foot-Brake stall is dependent upon too many variables. (i.e. type of braking system, disc or drum brakes, how well adjusted the brake system is, ring and pinion ratios affect foot-brake stall more dramatically, idle characteristics of the engine, cam installation for low-end torque as needed by an automatic transmission.)

Flash Stall can be determined a couple of different ways:

-With the vehicle sitting still and idling in low gear, apply full throttle. As the vehicle begins its motion forward, notice the RPM hand on the tachometer. That is your Flash Stall. (Engine should be very responsive from idle. If not, camshaft timing and/or carburetor adjustments may need to be made in order for the engine to be crisp from idle.)

-With the vehicle in forward motion in high or drive gear and at its lowest mph where it will not kick back to a lower gear, apply full throttle while noticing the rpm hand of the tachometer. (This measurement of a flash stall is best achieved with a full manual(shift) race auto transmission.)

How To Tell If A Torque Converter Is Bad

The torque converter manufacturer should always be consulted first for the proper steps and recommendations on testing a torque converter in the vehicle. However, a simple test can be performed to determine if it is working properly. The testing method is not compatible with vehicles equipped with traction control, anti-lock brake systems, or computer-controlled transmissions. Great care must be taken so that damage does not result to any vehicle components. First, all engine, transmission, and vehicle fluids must be in good condition and at the proper level. The vehicle needs to have the parking brake set and with the tires chocked to prevent any possibility of vehicle movement. A tachometer is required and must be clearly seen from the driver seat. Next, press the brake pedal all the way down and start the engine in park. Then shift the transmission into drive while still holding the brakes at the same pressure to prevent vehicle movement. With one foot on the brake pedal and the other to be used on the accelerator pedal, and while watching the tachometer rpms, press the accelerator all the way down between 2-3 seconds, but not exceeding 4 seconds as damage may result to the transmission. The stall speed of the converter is the maximum rpm the engine revved up to during that 2-3 second interval. If the stall speed does not match the manufacturer’s specified stall range, the converter and/or transmission need further inspection to confirm what component(s) are not working properly or which parts are damaged.

What Does The Term "Lock-Up" Torque Converter Mean?

This term refers to a converter that contains an internal lock-up piston or device, either friction or mechanical. Transmissions such as TH350C, 2004R, 4L60 (700R4), 4L60E, 4L80E, AOD, AODE/4R70W, and others, use these methods of eliminating slippage for an increase in fuel economy. Older transmissions such as the TH400, TH350, C6, C4, and others did not incorporate these methods of lock-up. The only way to increase fuel efficiency in these types of converters is to change clearances, redirect fin angles, and usually lower the actual stall speed. Locking up the torque converter results in lowering engine rpms as well as transmission fluid temperature.

How To Replace A Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

Depending on the transmission type, the steps required to replace a torque converter clutch solenoid on lock-up transmissions will be different. Most solenoids are located near the valve body and the front of the transmission. In many applications, replacement can be performed by removing the transmission fluid pan. Locating the transmission shop manual for your application will provide the correct instructions on proper replacement.

Should I Replace The Front Seal And Bushing In My Transmission Before Installing A New Torque Converter I Just Purchased?

Yes. You should inspect the old torque converter you are removing for damage to the converter hub that rides in the pump of the transmission. If you find any wear on the hub at all, you should replace both seal and bushing. If you find no wear at all, you may be fine with just a seal replacement. You should at least do one (seal) if not both (seal & bushing).

What Type Of Clearance Should I Have Between The Torque Converter And Flexplate Before Moving The Converter Forward And Bolting It To The Flexplate?

You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875") between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward front the transmission and bolting it to flexplate.

Can't Find The Torque Converter You Are Looking For?

A JEGS expert is ready to answer your questions and help you find the torque converter that you require for your specific application.

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bd diesel performance torque converter — Example internal components on a BD Diesel torque converter.

137 responses to “How To Choose A Torque Converter”

David Mitchell

July 16, 2026

I am needing a torque converter. Engine is a 2003 5.3 LS. B.TR stage 2 Cam . 600 Heads. ACES fuel injection and intake. Long tube headers(4 inch exhaust) Expecting about 450 HP . This is a 1972 Chevy Cheyenne. 3.07 Gear ratio. 4000 LB gross weight. Looking at a 2200=2600 stall and wondering if it is the right choice.Reman 4L60E transmission. Was recommended a 2500 stall. Mainly will be a driverwith an occasional “Put Down”. Thanks in advance

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  July 16, 2026
  
  David, with your combination, I think the recommended 2500 stall converter is the better choice. A 1972 Chevelle weighing around 4,000 pounds with a 5.3L, Stage 2 cam, 600 heads, long tube headers, ACES fuel injection, 3.07 rear gears, and a 4L60E will benefit from a little more stall than a stock converter without sacrificing street manners.
  A 2200 to 2600 stall range is close, but with a Stage 2 cam and an estimated 450 horsepower, I’d lean toward the upper end of that range. A quality 2500 stall converter should help the engine get into its torque curve more quickly, improve acceleration from a stop, and still drive comfortably on the street.
  The one thing working against performance in your combination is the 3.07 rear gear. It will keep highway RPM low, but it also makes the engine work harder from a stop. If you ever decide to change the rear gears to something like a 3.42 or 3.73, you’ll notice an even greater improvement in overall performance.
  For your stated goal of a primarily street-driven car with the occasional hard acceleration, I think a quality 2500 stall converter is a good match for the rest of your combination.
  If you’d like help selecting the best converter for your specific setup, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and a Tech Specialist can help you choose the right one.
  
  Reply
Donny

June 29, 2026

I have an 87 Chevy truck that weighs 3800#s with 5.13 gears
28 inch wheels
Th400 with a trans brake
A 496 that makes 660 lb ft and 580hp
Cam at.050 226/234
Was originally a street/strip truck with a Hughes 2500 converter but has since turned into all strip. Was looking for recommendations on one of your jegs anti ballooning converters, thanks!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  June 30, 2026
  
  Donny, with a 496 making 580 horsepower and 660 lb-ft of torque, a TH400, transbrake, 5.13 gears, 28 inch tires, and a 3,800 lb race weight, that 2500 stall converter is definitely too tight for an all-strip setup. Your cam is fairly mild for the size of the engine, but the transbrake and gear ratio still point toward a higher stall race converter that can get the truck into the meat of the torque curve quickly. For your combination, I would be looking closer to the 4000 to 4500 stall range, depending on launch RPM, shift RPM, and where the engine makes peak torque. Since you’re using a transbrake in a heavier vehicle, an anti-ballooning plate is a smart requirement, and a JEGS anti-ballooning race converter or a custom-built converter from brands like Hughes Performance, ATI Performance, or TCI Automotive would be the right style to consider. I would not choose this one by stall rating alone, though. With your torque output, vehicle weight, gear, tire, and transbrake use, the converter needs to be matched carefully so it flashes hard but does not slip excessively downtrack. If you want to get it right the first time, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and a Tech Specialist can help match the converter to your full setup.
  
  Reply
Mike Smith

June 26, 2026

67 camaro approximately 3100 race weight. 427 ls 9.7:1 compression 257/259 @.050 559lb-ft@5300 658hp@6600 th400 transbrake 4.10 gear
I think the converter in it is way too big. flashes about 6300-6400 with about 14% slippage at the finish line. It’s also a drag and drive car.
What would you recommend? Thank you

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  June 26, 2026
  
  Mike, based on the combination you listed, it does sound like the converter may be a little too loose. A 427 making about 658 HP, running a 4.10 gear, transbrake, and weighing around 3,100 pounds should be able to work well with a slightly tighter converter, especially since you also drive the car on the street.
  A finish line slip of around 14% is on the high side for an efficient naturally aspirated drag racing combination. Many well-matched converters for a setup like yours will typically be in the 6% to 10% range at the top end, although the ideal number depends on the converter design, tire size, and how the engine makes power.
  Rather than selecting a converter based only on advertised stall speed, I would work with a manufacturer that can build one around your complete combination. Important details include the transmission model, rear tire diameter, shift RPM, finish line RPM and MPH, and whether the engine spends more time on the street or at the track.
  From what you’ve shared, I would lean toward a slightly tighter custom converter that still flashes into the engine’s torque curve but improves efficiency on the top end. That should help reduce slip while maintaining good launch performance.
  If you’d like help selecting the right converter for your exact combination, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and a Tech Specialist can help narrow down the best option.
  
  Reply
Pete Mathisen

April 5, 2026

Hello,
I need a torque converter for 600 hp / 562 lb ft torque 351W SBF.
Camshaft 640/640 lift, 253/259 duration at .050, operating range 3200-7200.
Transmission C4 with 3:90 gear and 28″ tires.
Going in a ’79 Mustang. I’m guessing on the weight but It should end up at about 2600-2700 lbs and 230 more with me in it.
It will only be driven on the road to and from the local drag strip – 10 miles round trip.
Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 6, 2026
  
  Pete, with your combination that engine is clearly built to live in the higher rpm range, so the converter needs to match that or the car will feel lazy leaving the line. With a cam that starts making real power around 3200 rpm and pulls hard past 7000, you are going to want a converter that flashes up into that power band quickly. In a lightweight car like your ’79 Mustang at roughly 2800 pounds with driver, a stall speed in the 4200 to 4800 range is typically where that setup starts to work well. That allows the engine to get right into the cam’s sweet spot on launch instead of dragging through the lower rpm range where it is not as efficient. Your 3.90 gear and 28 inch tire combination supports that higher stall, and since the car is only being driven short distances on the street, you do not have to compromise much for drivability. A quality performance converter from brands like ATI Performance, TCI Automotive, or Hughes Performance in that stall range would be a good fit for a high rpm small block like yours. Also keep in mind that actual stall speed will vary based on engine torque and how efficiently the converter is built, so working with a company that can tailor the converter to your exact specs is always the best route. Based on what you have shared, you are right in the range where a higher stall converter will make a noticeable difference in how hard the car leaves. If you would like to go over the details and make sure everything is matched perfectly for your setup, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a Tech Specialist and we will be glad to help.
  
  Reply
Andrew

March 22, 2026

Hello! I have a 87 Silverado with a 355, it has the edelbrock hydraulic roller 234/238 539/548 lift with 112 lobe separation angle and 107 degree centerline. It’s has 9.5/1 compression with a 700r4 transmission. I am running a 4:11 gear ratio with a 26” tire. The truck weighs around 3500 pounds. I’m currently running a night stalker 12” 2800-3200 stall but it seems a little sluggish on take off. Any recommendations would be great!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 23, 2026
  
  Andrew, with your 355, that cam in the 234/238 range, and the 700R4 with 4.11 gears, your combination is set up to make power higher in the rpm range, so it needs enough converter to get into that power band quickly. A 2800 to 3200 stall is close, but with that cam and a 107 centerline, the engine is going to want a little more rpm before it really comes alive, which can make it feel soft or sluggish right off the line. In many cases like yours, stepping up slightly into the 3200 to 3600 range can help the truck leave harder and feel more responsive without hurting street manners too much, especially since your gear ratio is already helping keep it in the power. Another thing to keep in mind is that not all converters with the same advertised stall act the same. A more efficient performance converter from brands like TCI Automotive, Hughes Performance, or B&M can feel tighter at cruise but still flash higher under load, which can make a big difference in how the truck responds. Your vehicle weight and 26 inch tire are actually working in your favor, so the setup should respond well to a slightly higher stall. It is also worth making sure the engine tune, timing curve, and fuel delivery are dialed in, since those can also affect how the converter feels on takeoff. Based on your combination, moving up a few hundred rpm in stall speed with a quality performance series converter is usually the direction that improves launch the most. If you would like to go over your setup in more detail and make sure everything is matched correctly, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a Tech Specialist and we will be glad to help.
  
  Reply
Mark Csizmadia

March 15, 2026

Hi, Appreciate your advice.
I have a 67 Barracuda Mopar A body with a 727 Auto, 440, stealth alum heads, Dual plane ,10.0 Comp. ratio, Hyd roller cam 229/ 235 @50 and advertised @ 282/ 288, 520/530 lift, 112 lob sep. 2000-6200 RPM operation. 3:55 gears are planned. Torque converter is a question on my mind for some time. You thoughts are much appreciated.
I do have 2 new converters custom built at hand. 1 is 2200-2400 as per builder. 2 is from a friend that passed , never used and was for his drag car. no idea on the stall unfortunately but built by the same company for the 440 I have. I was told stall unknown by build ( cannot recall) and suspect but unsure it is in the 3500-4500 range. I guess using it is the only way to know? But, what are your thoughts on a stall speed for a mostly street driven car?
Thank you

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 16, 2026
  
  Mark, with a 440, 10.0 compression, aluminum Stealth style heads, a hydraulic roller cam in the 229/235 at .050 range, and a dual plane intake, your engine combination is set up for strong street torque with a useful power band that starts in the mid range and pulls well into the 6000 rpm area. With the 727 transmission and the planned 3.55 gears, a torque converter that stalls somewhere around the upper 2000 range into the low 3000 range usually works very well for a mostly street driven big block combination like yours. That range allows the engine to get closer to the start of the cam’s effective power band without making the car feel loose or inefficient during normal driving. The 2200 to 2400 converter you have would certainly work and would keep the car very street friendly, but it may feel a little tight considering the cam timing and the size of the engine. The unknown converter that may be in the 3500 to 4500 range is likely more suited for a drag focused setup and could feel too loose for regular street driving, especially with a 3.55 gear and a dual plane intake that is designed for strong mid range torque. Running a converter that stalls too high for a street car can lead to excess heat and higher cruising rpm before the converter couples efficiently. In your case, something closer to the 2800 to 3200 range tends to be a very good balance for drivability and performance with a cam in the 230 degree range on a 440. Since converter stall can vary depending on engine torque and vehicle weight, the actual stall you see can be different from the rated number. Brands like Hughes Performance, TCI Automotive, and B and M all offer converter series that are designed specifically for big block Mopar street and street strip combinations with the 727. If you would like to go over your vehicle weight, tire size, and intended driving style to narrow the converter choice even further, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a Tech Specialist and we will be glad to help.
  
  Reply
Stephen lang

February 18, 2026

Thank you for your help I have a 1964 rambler American that weighs 2500 lbs. with a 2000 5.7 ls1 with a cam of 560/560 lift 216/220 duration at 114 lsa . The transmission is a 2 speed power glide, 26 inch tires and right now a 3.30 gears in the rear end. car is for 1/8 mile drag race foot brake class, looking for help sizing the torque converter for this set up

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 19, 2026
  
  Stephen, that sounds like a fun little 1/8 mile combo. At 2500 pounds with an LS1, a mild cam in the 216/220 range on a 114 LSA, a Powerglide, 26 inch tire, and 3.30 gears, the converter is going to play a big role in how hard it leaves on the foot brake. With that cam and typical LS1 power curve, you are probably making peak torque in the mid range and power up around 6000 rpm, so you want the converter to flash up into the strong part of the curve right off the line. For a foot brake 1/8 mile setup like this, a true stall speed in the 3200 to 3600 range is usually a good starting point with a mild cam LS and a Powerglide. In a lightweight car like yours, it will likely flash a little higher than the advertised number, so that is something to keep in mind. A 9.5 inch or 10 inch performance converter from a brand like TCI, Hughes Performance, or ATI that is built specifically for LS crank flange spacing and Powerglide input is typically the right direction for this type of bracket car. With your current 3.30 gear, the car may feel a little lazy on the starting line compared to something with a steeper gear, so the converter choice becomes even more important. If you ever step up to more rear gear, the stall target may change slightly. For the most accurate recommendation, it helps to know your target launch rpm on the foot brake and your planned shift rpm, since 1/8 mile tuning is all about matching the flash stall to where the engine is happiest. I would suggest giving our Tech Specialists a call at 1-800-345-4545 so they can match you up with the right series converter based on your exact LS flexplate setup and race goals.
  
  Reply
Larry Bagley

February 16, 2026

I’ve installed the ATK 450hp long block (cam specs are 550/550, Duration @.050- 222/232) in front of a 4L80e transmission with 4:10 gears and an Eaton posi unit in my 2002 ext. cab Silverado. I currently have a 3000 rpm TCI converter, but it feels very sluggish at takeoff. I’m using the same stall converter I had behind the 402 stroker that I removed from the truck. Is it possible that the sluggish take off is because the stall speed is wrong?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 16, 2026
  
  Larry, yes, it is absolutely possible that the sluggish takeoff is related to the converter match. A torque converter does not behave the same behind every engine. Your old 402 stroker likely made a lot more low rpm torque than the new ATK 450 hp long block, even though the horsepower numbers may be similar. Stall speed is load and torque dependent, so a converter that flashed hard behind the stroker may not be reaching its true stall behind the new engine. With a 222/232 cam at .050 and .550 lift on a 4L80E with 4.10 gears, a true 3000 stall is normally a solid match for a street truck. However, if the converter was built tight for the big torque of the 402, it may be coupling earlier now and not letting the engine get into its stronger part of the power curve before the truck starts moving. That can feel lazy off the line. Another factor is tuning. On a 4L80E, throttle position, shift timing, and torque management in the tune can dramatically affect launch feel. If the engine swap was not followed by recalibration, the transmission may be pulling timing or managing torque in a way that dulls the hit. Before changing converters, I would confirm what rpm the converter is actually flashing to on a hard brake stall or launch and verify the tune is optimized for the new combo. If it is only flashing to something like 2400 to 2600, then a looser 3200 to 3400 range converter built for your current torque curve could wake it up. If it truly flashes near 3000 and still feels soft, tuning or overall torque output is more likely the cause. If you want to go deeper into your exact setup and make sure the converter and tune are working together, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our JEGS Tech Specialists will be glad to help you sort it out.
  
  Reply
Eric

February 8, 2026

Hi. I have a 55 Chevy with a 496 big block probably around 3300lbs street strip combo.
Solid roller .661int/,668ex lift
.254/.260 @50
110 lobe sep
Single plane 4150int
950 carb
10:3:1comp
Probably 600-650hp range, lots of torque.
Currently has th400
.308 gears
3200-3500stall
It has the to big of stall feel. Slipping at highway speed. Would it be best to lower the rear end gear or lower the stall? In this combo. I don’t want a 4:10 gear. it gets driven quite a bit.
Thanks for your help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 9, 2026
  
  Eric, thanks for laying out the full combo, that helps a lot. With a 496 making that kind of torque, the issue you are feeling at highway speed is almost certainly converter related, not the rear gear. A 3200 to 3500 stall behind a big inch, high torque engine like this will tend to feel loose and slip more during steady cruise, especially with a TH400 that has no overdrive. Your 3.08 rear gear is already on the mild side for a street driven car and actually helps keep highway rpm reasonable, so changing to a steeper rear gear would only raise cruise rpm and make the slipping sensation more noticeable, not better.
  
  In this case, the better move is stepping down to a tighter converter rather than changing rear gears. With your cam specs and power range, a quality performance converter in the 2600 to 2800 stall range would still flash hard under throttle but couple much more efficiently once you are cruising. A converter with a more efficient internal design, often called a tight or street strip style converter, will dramatically reduce highway slip while still working well at the track. This approach keeps the car comfortable for real driving without sacrificing the fun when you lean on it.
  
  One other thing worth noting is that not all stall ratings act the same. Behind a 600 plus horsepower big block, many converters will flash higher than their advertised rating, which explains why your current setup feels softer than expected. A properly matched lower stall unit will feel more responsive and more connected overall.
  
  If you want help narrowing this down to the right converter style for how you actually drive the car, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a JEGS Tech Specialist. They can walk through the details and help make sure you end up with something that works the way you want without giving up drivability.
  
  Reply
Jimmy Connell

February 6, 2026

I putting an ATK HP89 in a 79 Corvette turbo 350, 3.36 gear cam is 220/224 @50 .528in/.536ex 110LSA
10.1 compression. It say 2200 to 2800 stall recommend is a 2800 to 3000 stall to much. Thanks 15in rim 245 60 tire thank you Jimmy Connell

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 6, 2026
  
  Jimmy, with that ATK HP89, the cam specs you listed, and the 3.36 rear gear in a relatively light Corvette, a true 2800 to 3000 stall would be pushing the upper edge of what makes sense for a street driven combo. Your cam’s effective powerband starts around 2200, and with the 110 LSA and decent compression it will already be pretty responsive. A good quality converter in the 2400 to 2600 stall range is usually the sweet spot here. It will flash high enough to keep the engine happy off the line, still feel tight during normal driving, and not generate unnecessary heat or excess slip on the highway. Jumping all the way to a real 3000 stall with your rear gear and tire size can feel looser than you want in normal cruising and is not really needed to make the cam work. As long as the converter is well matched and built efficiently, staying closer to the middle of the cam manufacturer’s recommendation will give you better drivability and still deliver strong performance. If you want help narrowing that down to the right style and build quality for your exact use, call us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech specialist to handle any additional questions you might have.
  
  Reply
Adam

January 16, 2026

I was looking for a stall recommendation on my set up daily driving, but I like to party
1974 k 10 weight 4700 lbs
BR4002ctc1 sbc 400
roller cam .555 intake .576 exhaust lift
236 intake / 242 exhaust duration
@.050-110-degree lobe separation
33″ tires
3.73 gears
th400
509 hp
525 ft lb

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 16, 2026
  
  James, with your K10 weight, tire size, gear ratio, and that cam profile, you are right in the window where converter choice really matters. That 236 242 cam on a 110 LSA wants some rpm to be happy, but the 4700 pound truck and 33 inch tires mean you still need good coupling for daily driving. For this combo a quality 3000 rpm stall is the sweet spot. It will flash high enough to get the engine into the torque curve when you step on it, but still stay tight enough to cruise without excess heat or a mushy feel around town. I would stay away from anything looser than about 3200 for a daily driven truck at this weight, even if you like to get on it, and anything lower than about 2800 will feel lazy off the line with that cam. A well built 10 inch or tight 11 inch converter designed for street performance is exactly what you want, especially with a TH400. Brands like TCI in their StreetFighter series, Hughes Performance street converters, B&M Holeshot units, and ATI street focused converters are all good matches when spec’d in that 3000 rpm range. With the torque your engine makes, converter quality matters more than chasing a higher stall number. If you want help narrowing it down to the best option for how you actually drive it, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists can walk through it with you and get you dialed in.
  
  Reply
Phil Peistrup

December 31, 2025

Would like a Jeg’s recommendation on a torque converter. This is for a 1967 Mustang Fastback which literature says weighs about 3000#. The transmission is a TCI C4 Streetfighter that has also been beefed up a little over their build. The rear end is a 3.7 with Detroit tru-trac and 245/45ZR17 tires. The engine is based on a Ford Racing 363 short block with Dart Pro 1 heads and Edelbrock Pro-Flo 3 fuel injection. Cam is a Crane roller with 224 in/232 ex duration @.050 and .542 in/.563 ex valve lift. Cam card states min rpm 2400 and 6400 max. Crane catalog stated stall should be 2500+. I’ve looked at various builder recommendations on line for similar 363’s and dyno curves (I don’t have one for this engine) and have seen recommendations for everything from 2200+ to 3500+ stall. I’ve figured 2800 stall is about what would work for me which is between the typical 2500 and 3000 converters available. I’m tending towards the 3000 rpm stall. This is for street use (I’m 75 now and don’t get too wild anymore but still like to build them). Thanks in advance for your recommendation.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 31, 2025
  
  Phil, based on the combination you outlined you are thinking in the right direction. A 3000 pound Mustang with a 363, good heads, EFI, and a cam that does not really come alive until the mid 2000 rpm range is not going to be happy with a low stall converter. With your 3.70 gear, tire size, and a C4 Streetfighter that already has a fairly aggressive first gear, a true 2800 to 3000 stall converter is a very good match for how you plan to drive the car. The reason you are seeing such a wide range of recommendations online is because stall speed is affected by vehicle weight, rear gear, torque curve, and how the converter is built, not just the cam card. In your case, leaning toward the higher end of that range makes sense, and a quality 10 inch performance converter in the 3000 stall range will give you good throttle response, keep the engine in its torque band on takeoff, and still be very street friendly for cruising and normal driving. Going higher than that would not really add anything for a street driven car like yours and would only increase heat and slippage. A well built performance street converter from brands like TCI, Hughes Performance, or B&M in their street or street strip series is exactly where you want to be. If you want to talk through options and make sure the stall rating lines up with how the converter is actually built, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists will be happy to help you dial it in.
  
  Reply
Lucas

December 22, 2025

I have a g body with a gen 4 454bbc and a 4l80. I will be making around 700-800hp, twin turbo mild cam setup. 90% of time will be street driving and rolls. Will see the strip a couple times of years with a trans brake. Whole setup with driver around 4000lbs. I’m looking for 2800-3000 rpm stall. My question is can I use a converter with a 10.75 bolt circle and then a flexplate with 168T, 1pc rear seal for a bbc? I would also be looking for anti balloon plates on the converter. I see the flexplate 809-10185034 offers 11.5 and 10.75 BDC but also says for 91-up bbc engines whereas mines from the 70s. Is there a downside to using a 10.75 converter compared to the 11.5? I’m on a strict budget and notice the 10.75 converters are more common therefore more inexpensive. Thank you

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 22, 2025
  
  Lucas,
  With your power level, weight, and usage, you are asking the right questions and you are also right to be cautious. Yes, you can physically run a 10.75 bolt circle converter with a 168 tooth flexplate on a big block Chevy, but compatibility depends on the crank flange style first, not the year of the engine itself. Gen IV big block Chevy engines use a two piece rear main seal crank, which requires a flexplate designed for a two piece seal. Many later flexplates that list 91 up big block compatibility are for one piece rear main seal cranks and will not fit your engine correctly even if the bolt pattern looks right. That part needs to be confirmed before anything else. As far as 10.75 versus 11.5 converters, the downside is not stall accuracy but strength and heat control. A 10.75 converter typically uses a smaller diameter core, thinner cover, and less internal mass, which makes it easier to hit stall on a budget but also makes it more prone to ballooning and clutch deflection in high torque turbo applications. At 700 to 800 horsepower with a trans brake and twin turbos, you are absolutely correct that an anti balloon plate is mandatory, and ideally a thicker billet cover as well. An 11.5 converter generally offers better torque capacity, more stable coupling on the street, lower cruising heat, and longer life, especially in a heavy car that sees roll racing. The reason you see more 10.75 options is cost, not suitability, and while they can work, they are living closer to the edge in your application. On a strict budget, a well built 10.75 with anti ballooning hardware can survive if the tune is clean and boost is controlled, but from a reliability standpoint an 11.5 is the safer long term choice for a street heavy turbo big block. Getting the flexplate matched correctly to your two piece rear seal crank and the converter bolt pattern is critical, and that is something we strongly recommend verifying before ordering. For help dialing in the right combination without wasting money, you can call 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a tech specialist who can walk through the flexplate, converter, and transmission setup with you in detail.
  
  Reply
John

December 19, 2025

Hi, I would like your help in picking a torque converter and stall speed.

I am planning to put a Blueprint Engines BP4002CTC1D into a 1987 Blazer K5.
The specs are given below :
1- Gross Wt is 4500 lbs
2- 700R4 Transmission (with locking capability)
3- Differential gear is 4.56
4- Tire diameter is 33”
5- Headers, dual 3” exhaust pipes.
7- Engine is 400 ci, 500 hp, 510 lbft
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller Cam –
0.553 Intake / 0.576 Exhaust Lift and
236 Intake / 242 Exhaust Duration
@ .050 – 110° LSA

This is my daily driver. Used for street only.
Looking for strong acceleration from idle up to 5500 rpm.
May pull a 4500 lb boat every now and then, if at all.

Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 19, 2025
  
  John, with a 4500 lb K5 on 33s, 4.56 gears, and a 700R4, that 236/242 @ .050 hydraulic roller is going to want more converter than a mild street build, but since you want it to stay happy as a daily and you might tow a 4500 lb boat sometimes, I would target a lockup converter in the 2800 to 3200 stall range. That range will let the engine get into the meat of the cam quicker so it feels sharp from a stop, and the lockup keeps cruise rpm and heat under control when you are just driving around or on the highway. I would also lean toward a quality 10 inch lockup performance converter rather than a larger, tighter stock style unit, because the smaller performance converters generally flash higher and respond better with a bigger cam like yours, while still being streetable when it is a well matched lockup setup. The one thing I cannot be 100 percent precise on without more info is how the boat will be towed (flat towing vs trailer weight and how often), plus whether the engine combo is truly making peak torque higher in the rpm band as the cam specs suggest, because that can nudge the stall up or down a couple hundred rpm. Call us at 1-800-345-4545 and a tech specialist can confirm the best lockup converter series for your exact 700R4 setup and your real towing plan.
  
  Reply
Randal w Wagoner

December 12, 2025

This is a sbc 360cubic inch. Originally a 350 5.7L 4 bolt main 010 engine. It has been bored .060 over . It should make aorund 450hp more if tuned very well and all
supporting mods. It has the following:
4.060 sbc 4 bolt fresh bore
3.480 NF 10/10 crankshaft 442
5.7 X rods
4.060 flat top 4v hyper pistons
Moly rings
Link bar hydraulic roller lifters
Comp cam 236/242 .550 .570 110LSA FULL ROLLER CAM
Mahle .026 perf head gaskets
10/10 clevitte p series bearings
195cc alum heads new platinum motorsports
2.02 1.60’stainless valves
.600 pac LPC springs running tunnel ram with dual 600 holleys matched with a th350 trans its a 1939 pontiac around 3000lbs and a cruiser only no track time will be involved has a stock rear end from a 78 camaro. 235/60 15,s tires

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 15, 2025
  
  Randal, Thanks for laying out the combo, that helps a lot. With a 3000 lb car, TH350, tunnel ram with dual carbs, and a fairly aggressive hydraulic roller at 236/242 on a 110 LSA, this engine is not going to be happy with a tight or stock style converter. Even as a cruiser, the cam and intake combination want rpm before they really come alive. In this case, a 10 inch performance converter in the 3000 to 3400 stall range is where this setup will work best on the street. That stall range will let the engine get into the cam quickly, keep it from feeling lazy at low speed, and still be manageable for cruising as long as the converter is built efficiently. A 12 inch converter would be too tight for this cam and tunnel ram and would make the car feel soft leaving from a stop. One important detail that does affect the final stall choice is the actual rear gear ratio in that 78 Camaro rear, since those were commonly 2.73 or 3.08 from the factory, and a taller gear would push the recommendation closer to the upper end of that stall range. To dial it in perfectly based on the rear gear and how you plan to drive it, give our tech team a call at 1-800-345-4545 and they can help match you with the right converter series for this combo.
  
  Reply
Jorge rodrigo

December 6, 2025

I’m building my 5.3 LS gonna throw a Texas speed cam 232/234 .600-.600 lift 112 lsa have a fully rebuilt 2wd 4l80 going in but tryna figure out what size converter to get truck is on 235/30/20 wheels and tires with 4:10 diff gear ratio website says 3200+ stall but not exactly sure what stall and MM size to get.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 8, 2025
  
  With that cam, gear, and tire combo, you’re already in the right ballpark with the 3200 stall suggestion. A 232/234 cam on a 112 lsa makes its power higher in the curve and absolutely needs a looser converter to keep the truck from feeling lazy off the line. For your setup, a stall in the 3400 to 3600 range is usually the sweet spot. That keeps the engine right where that cam starts to come alive without being so loose that the truck becomes annoying to drive on the street. As for converter size, most performance converters for a 4L80 are going to be in the 245 to 258 mm range when you’re shopping under the common series options. A 245 mm style will generally flash a little quicker and hit harder, which matches well with your cam and 4.10 gears. A 258 mm style is a bit tighter and smoother if you want it slightly more street friendly. The last piece of accuracy depends on the weight of the truck and how you plan to use it. If it’s a full weight street truck, that supports the 3400 to 3600 choice. If it’s stripped down and light, the converter may flash even higher, and you might back it down slightly. If you want someone to pin down the perfect match, give our tech team a call at 1-800-345-4545 and they can dial it in with you.
  
  Reply
Nathan Adams

December 2, 2025

Im rebuilding a 72 scout as an off-road rock crawling rig that will still see some highway time occasionally. I’ve got a 5.3 ls with a stage 2 low lift cam (212/218 .550″/.550″ 112LSA) with 5.38 gears on 42” tires. Once Im with the build, the rig should be around 4,700lbs to 5,200lbs.

I need some help in determining the right torque converter for my set up with the right stall speed for the type of rig I’m building. Thanks again

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 2, 2025
  
  Nathan, with your setup the big thing is balancing slow speed control for crawling while still keeping the converter tight enough that the rig isn’t hunting for rpm on the highway. Your cam is mild enough that it doesn’t need a high stall, and the deep 5.38 gears and heavy tires already multiply torque quite a bit. That combination usually wants a converter in the lower stall range so the truck stays predictable on climbs and doesn’t flare when you ease into the throttle. For most LS engines with a cam in the 212 to 218 range, a converter in the 1800 to 2200 stall window is the sweet spot for off road builds. It gives you clean engagement at low speeds, enough slip to keep the engine in its torque curve when you tip in the throttle, and it won’t cause extra heat on long highway stretches. The exact recommendation depends on which transmission you are running, so if you’re using a 4L60E versus a 4L80E or something fully custom, the converter choice changes a bit. If you want to go over the transmission you’re using and narrow it down to a specific unit from one of the reputable brands we carry, call us at 1-800-345-4545 and a tech specialist can make sure you get the right match for that Scout.
  
  Reply
  1. Nathan Adams
    
    December 2, 2025
    
    Okay, I’ll give them a call. Though it’s a 98 4l60e behind the 5.3
    
    Reply
Philip

November 25, 2025

Hi I have a 83 gmc 1500, looking at going with a blueprint engines 383 strocker engine. Truck has a th350 trans and 3.73 rear gear. 28″ tall tire. Strr
Let use just looking to have some fun. What stall would you suggest?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  November 26, 2025
  
  Philip, with a Blueprint 383, a TH350, 3.73 gears, and a 28 inch tire, you’re already set up for a combo that responds really well to a moderate performance stall. The ideal stall depends slightly on which Blueprint engine you’re choosing because they offer several camshaft profiles. Most of their street 383s use cams that make power in the 1,800 to 5,500 range, and those engines are happiest with a converter in the 2,200 to 2,600 range. If you choose one of their hotter hydraulic roller 383s that starts pulling hard closer to 2,500, you can move up to a 2,800 stall without hurting drivability. With your rear gears and tire size, either of those ranges will launch the truck harder, clean up the low speed manners, and keep it fun without making it annoying in normal cruising. If you want exact confirmation based on the specific Blueprint cam card, call our tech team at 1-800-345-4545 and they can match the converter to your exact engine choice.
  
  Reply
  1. philip
    
    December 9, 2025
    
    Cam Type: Hydraulic Roller
    .544 Intake/.555 Exhaust Lift
    230 Intake/236 Exhaust Duration @ .050
    Lobe Seperation (LSA) 110
    last question. For this truck would a 12″ converter or a 10″ converter?
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      December 10, 2025
      
      Nice, thanks for the cam specs, that helps a lot. With that 230/236 @ .050 hydraulic roller, 110 LSA, 383, TH350, 3.73 gear and 28 inch tire, you’re solidly in the range where a 10 inch performance style converter makes a lot more sense than a 12 inch. A 12 inch is going to behave much closer to a tight, near stock type converter and will leave some of that cam on the table, especially off the line. A good 10 inch in the 2800 to roughly 3200 stall window will let the engine get up into the meat of the cam quicker, make the truck feel much snappier, and still be very usable for normal street driving in a light pickup like yours as long as you are not trying to tow heavy with it. If you want someone to match a specific series to your exact combo and weight, give our tech crew a call at 1-800-345-4545 and they can walk through it with you.
      
      Reply
Mike Wheeler

November 12, 2025

Thanks in advanced for the help – looking for a converter recommendation. I have a 66 mustang with a 347 (461hp @ 5600/475lbs @ 4000) and a 4R70W. We will have 26” tires and are running 3.70 gears. I don’t have a cam card but the duration at .050 is 227/238 and looking at the dyno sheet the band appears to be between 2500 – 4500 ish. This will primarily be used as a driver with a little bit of fun every now and again. Appreciate the help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  November 13, 2025
  
  Hi Mike, that’s a solid setup for a street-driven ’66 Mustang. With your 347 making power from roughly 2500 to 4500 rpm, a mild cam, and the 4R70W’s overdrive gearing, you’ll want a converter that flashes just above the start of that torque curve without being loose during normal cruising.
  For your combination, a performance street converter from TCI, Hughes Performance, or B&M in the 2200 to 2600 stall range would be a great fit. This range will let the engine get into its powerband when you launch or roll into the throttle, but it will still cruise comfortably in overdrive without excessive slippage or heat buildup. Since the car is mostly a driver, staying under 2800 stall keeps drivability tight and helps transmission longevity.
  It’s worth confirming that your converter choice matches the flexplate balance for your 347, since many aftermarket stroker kits are internally balanced, but some are external depending on the crank. If you’re unsure, your engine builder or the balance specs on your rotating assembly will confirm that for you.
  Lastly, adding a quality transmission cooler from Derale or B&M is highly recommended, especially with a looser converter and an overdrive unit like the 4R70W.
  For the best match, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists can verify the exact converter and brand that fits your combo perfectly.
  
  Reply
Gary Martin Erickson

October 12, 2025

Hi, What torque converter(s) would you recommend? Here is my information; 1949 Chev Styleline 2 door sedan published weight 3280 lbs. It will be getting a turbo 400 & a 489 stroker 10.2:1 compression with aluminum Flotek heads 320cc/133cc. A hydraulic Howards roller cam 112 LS Exhaust duration at 050 is 233 & intake 245 + Exhaust lift .635 & Intake lift .635 basic rpm range 2500-6300 + rear axle 3.73 gears with 26.80 G60x15 tires. Published; best combination for street/strip & bracket racing. Thanking you in advance for your recommendation.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  October 13, 2025
  
  Hi Gary, that’s an excellent setup for a street and strip combination, and you’ve already got a great foundation with that 489 stroker and Howards hydraulic roller. With your cam’s 2500–6300 rpm range, 10.2:1 compression, and 3.73 gears, you’ll want a torque converter that flashes right into that lower end of the powerband without being too loose for street use.
  For your combination, a converter in the 2800–3200 stall range would be the sweet spot. That’ll give you strong off-the-line performance and let the engine jump right into its torque curve, but it will still be streetable and behave well when cruising. The TH400 transmission can easily handle converters in that range, especially when paired with a good auxiliary transmission cooler.
  As for brands, look at Hughes Performance, TCI (StreetFighter or Breakaway series), or B&M (Holeshot series). Each offers converters with tight tolerances that work well in heavier cars like your ’49 Chevy while still delivering quick lockup and good torque multiplication. If you want to get the most out of it, having one custom-built to your exact setup is a great option. That ensures the stall matches your engine’s torque characteristics and your driving style.
  If you’d like to go over the details of your build and nail down the perfect converter before ordering, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with one of our tech specialists. They can confirm fitment, stall speed selection, and even recommend supporting parts like transmission coolers or flexplates for your TH400 setup.
  
  Reply
Marcus Hommen

October 9, 2025

Hello,
I drive a Dodge W200 with a 508 engine,
Cam 218/228-112
47RH transmission with adapter for the BB.
Tire size 37″
Axle ratio 4.88

What torque converter do you recommend?
What stall speed?

The Dodge has to carry a heavy load.

Regards, Marcus

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  October 13, 2025
  
  Hi Marcus, thanks for sharing those details — that helps a lot. With your combination of a 508 big block, 47RH transmission, 4.88 gears, and 37-inch tires, your setup calls for a converter that balances heavy load capability with solid low-end torque transfer. Your cam specs (218/228 duration at .050 on a 112 LSA) put your powerband roughly in the 1,800–5,000 RPM range, which means you want a stall speed that comes in low enough to work with your torque curve but still gives smooth drivability.
  For your truck, a true 2,200–2,400 stall converter would be ideal. That stall range will get you into the engine’s torque early without slipping too much under load, which is especially important for a heavy 4×4 with tall tires. Because the 47RH is lockup-capable, you’ll still get good highway manners and cooler transmission temps once it locks in at speed.
  In terms of quality and reliability, look at converters from Hughes Performance, TCI (StreetFighter or Breakaway series), or B&M (Tork Master or Holeshot series). These brands offer heavy-duty converters built specifically for trucks that see both towing and off-road use. If you regularly haul heavy loads or run at higher elevations, you might even lean toward the tighter side of that range (closer to 2,200).
  To confirm the best fit, you’ll want to verify a few details such as the converter bolt pattern, input spline count on your transmission, and the engine’s balance (internal vs. external). That ensures the converter matches your setup perfectly.
  If you’d like help double-checking those specs or narrowing down the exact converter to order, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists can walk you through the options and make sure you get one that’s right for your 47RH and 508 combo.
  
  Reply
Steve Farley

October 6, 2025

I recently replaced the engine in my 1973 Bronco and now want to replace the torque converter. What stall speed do I need?

1973 Ford Bronco
GVW: 4900 lbs
Stock Ford C4 transmission
Rear gear ratio: 3.50
Tires: 33×12.5×15
Per engine curve:
HP Range: 170.6 to 363.7 (3000 to 5800 rpm)
Torque Range (lb-ft): 298.7 to 329.3 (3000 to 5800 rpm) max torque 344.1 @ 4800 rpm

Can you recommend a torques converter for this application?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  October 7, 2025
  
  Hi Steve, thanks for the detailed info on your Bronco setup. With your combination, it sounds like you’ve got a strong small block build that makes power in the mid to upper rpm range, paired with off-road gearing and taller tires. That gives us a good base to work from.
  Since you’re running a C4 transmission with 3.50 gears and 33-inch tires, you’ll want a torque converter that complements that 3000–5800 rpm powerband but still stays street and trail friendly. A converter in the range of roughly 2400–2800 stall speed would be a great match. That’ll let the engine rev into its torque curve quickly without being overly loose during normal cruising. It will also help the truck stay responsive in mud or sand while still being manageable on the street.
  A few brands that perform really well in setups like yours are Hughes, B&M, and TCI. Each of those companies makes converters built for off-road and performance street use that are compatible with the C4. The right choice depends slightly on your camshaft profile and whether you plan to keep it mostly a trail cruiser or see some regular road driving too.
  If you’d like to go over the specific details to make sure you get the best match for your combination, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists can help narrow it down based on your cam specs and driving style.
  
  Reply
  1. Steve Farley
    
    October 7, 2025
    
    Thank you very much for the information. My cam specs are as follows:
    Hydraulic Roller Cam
    .533 Intake/.544 Exhaust Lift
    215 Intake/220 Exhaust Duration @.050 – 114 degree LSA.
    
    I can only seem to find 2300 – 2500 or 2800 – 3200 converters. Do you know who would make the 2400 – 2800 converter recommended above?
    
    For now it is a street cruiser but will see some off road action as well.
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      October 8, 2025
      
      Hey Steve, thanks for the follow-up and for the cam details. With that hydraulic roller (.533/.544 lift, 215/220 @ .050, 114 LSA) and your Bronco’s weight, 3.50 gears, and 33s, the sweet spot is still a true 2,400–2,700 “flash” stall. In the real world, most converters labeled 2,300–2,500 will land right there in your combo because the small-block makes good torque down low and the truck is heavy. A converter advertised at 2,800–3,200 will feel looser than you want on the street and build more heat off-road.
      Who can supply it, available from JEGS: look at street/strip units from Hughes Performance, TCI (StreetFighter series), B&M (Holeshot series), or a JEGS Street Performance converter. All of these can be ordered in the 2,300–2,500 range, and companies like Hughes can also build a custom 2,400–2,600 to your exact specs if you want it nailed. When you order, have these details ready so it’s built correctly: C4 4×4 application, flexplate tooth count and balance (verify whether your engine uses 28-oz or 50-oz imbalance), input-spline count, tire size, gear ratio, and intended usage. Pair it with a good stacked-plate cooler and you’ll keep temps happy.
      If you want us to set this up as a custom build or point you to the right off-the-shelf piece, call 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
      
      Reply
Ernesto

August 19, 2025

I am working on my personal project a square body with a SBC 355, intake performer RPM, Vortec heads, long headers, and a camshaft with duration of 218/224, lift of .462/.469 and an operation range of 1300-5600 RPM, it is currently manual transmission and I am thinking of making the change to a 700R4 with some improvements such as shift kit 2-3, the differential ratio is 2.56 with 31-inch tires, I would like a little guidance on which converter to choose this project what would be the most optimal stall speed? I would like to drive daily and sometimes long distances on the road, that has a good response on the streets. Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  August 20, 2025
  
  Hi Ernesto,
  Thanks for laying out all the details of your setup, that really helps narrow things down. Since you are moving from a manual to a 700R4, the stall choice is going to make a big difference in how that truck feels both around town and on longer trips. Let’s go through the main points.
  Your Current Combination
  Engine: SBC 355 with a mild street cam (218/224 duration, .462/.469 lift, 1300–5600 RPM range).
  Heads & Intake: Vortec heads, Performer RPM intake, long-tube headers.
  Transmission: Planning a 700R4 with a shift kit.
  Rear Gear & Tires: 2.56 gears with 31-inch tires.
  Intended Use: Daily driving, long-distance highway cruising, but also wanting better street response.
  Key Considerations
  The cam you’re using comes in fairly quick and doesn’t need a huge stall to get into its powerband. Normally, a converter in the 2200–2500 stall range would match it well for crisp throttle response.
  The challenge is your 2.56 gears and 31-inch tires. That combination is very tall, which means it’s harder to get the truck moving from a stop. A higher stall converter could help with off-the-line response, but it will also generate more heat and may feel “loose” in highway cruising with those gears.
  If you keep the 2.56s, going too high on stall isn’t ideal for daily and long-distance driving. A 2000–2200 stall is about as far as you’d want to push it without hurting drivability.
  If in the future you consider moving to a deeper gear (like 3.42 or 3.73), then a 2400–2600 stall would really wake up your combination and match your cam’s range better.
  Recommendation
  With your current gearing and tire size, I’d suggest staying with a mild stall in the 2000–2200 range. That will keep highway manners good and still improve street response a bit. If you plan to re-gear the truck later, you can look at stepping up to something closer to 2400–2600 to get the most out of your cam and engine combo.
  If you’d like to go over specific converter options from brands like Hughes, TCI, or B&M, I recommend giving our tech team a quick call at 1-800-345-4545. They can walk you through choices based on your exact build plans and goals.
  
  Reply
Ernest

August 16, 2025

Update to Feb conversation. I’ve been driving the car more and learned a little more about transmission stalls. Because of the 200-R4’s OD gear, my normal driving, 35 – 55 MPH, is approximately 12 – 1900 RPM; highway driving, 65 – 80 MPH, is approximately 21 – 2600+ RPM. Incline or regular drive gear has pushed me up to 3300 RPM. OEM stall for my 200-R4, which came out of an 80s Monte Carlo, is approximately 1400 – 1600 (1800 – 2200 for the SS). Transmission guy who modified my stall stated it was only a few RPM over stock. The short block for my stroker motor is complete. Modest estimates show the combination of parts, compression and proper tuning suggest HP & torque numbers around 390 – 425 and 450 – 510 ft lbs. at the crank. That being said, my cam’s manufacturer, Erson, claims their custom grind hydraulic roller with zero advance, 222/222@050 110 LSA .544/.544 lift with 1.6 rocker arms and 1500 – 5500 operating range will be fine in conjunction with my 1800 – 2200 stall within my 4000 lb. Impala with 28″ diameter wheels and a 3.73 rear end because of my driving habits. Basically, I don’t routinely drive fast enough, to warrant a higher stall. 2000 – 2400 is the highest he suggested only after I drove the car normally with the current stall. Anything higher would just introduce more heat at low RPMs. Do you agree or stand upon your original assessment?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  August 18, 2025
  
  Hi Ernest,
  You’ve put together a really detailed breakdown, and it sounds like you’ve done your homework on both the drivability and the stall characteristics with your 200-4R. Based on what you’ve described, I’d say your cam manufacturer is giving you sound advice. Here’s why:
  Driving Range and Stall Match
  Your cam has an operating range of 1500–5500 RPM, and your current converter is right at the low end of that range. Because your normal driving keeps you in the 1200–2600 RPM window, a converter in the 1800–2200 range is a very reasonable fit. If you go higher, say 2600–2800, you’d likely gain some punch off the line, but you’d also see more heat buildup during cruising speeds, which isn’t ideal for a 4000 lb. car with overdrive.
  Powerband vs. Vehicle Weight
  With 390–425 HP and 450–510 ft. lbs. at the crank in a 4000 lb. Impala, the motor has enough torque to move the car well without needing an aggressive stall. The 3.73 gears and 28-inch tires already help get things moving, so you’re not relying on a converter alone to mask any lack of bottom-end power.
  Heat and Longevity Considerations
  As your transmission guy and cam manufacturer pointed out, excessive stall in your situation doesn’t buy you much benefit. Instead, it introduces added heat, which means more strain on transmission fluid and internals, especially since you’re not doing heavy drag racing. Keeping stall in the 1800–2200 window keeps the converter working efficiently while staying within the sweet spot of your cam.
  Bottom Line
  I’d agree with your cam manufacturer here. Your current stall is in the right ballpark for your combination, and a modest step up to 2000–2400 could be worth it if you wanted a little quicker response on the street. Anything higher really isn’t necessary for your setup and would likely do more harm than good for long-term reliability.
  If you’d like to go over your exact combination in more detail and make sure you’ve got the best converter match, I’d recommend giving us a call at 1-800-345-4545 to talk with one of our tech specialists. They can confirm the best fit once they know all the details of your build and how you plan to drive it.
  
  Reply
  1. Ernest
    
    August 19, 2025
    
    I had to become realistic with my expectations. Here in SOCAL, you are either stuck in grid-lock traffic or avoiding lane-splitting motorcycles, modded cars running 90+ mph or lifted trucks moving like they are sports cars in the far-left lane. Not going to spend the money to make my Impala handle like my newer car. Last Sunday on a 55-mph state road as I approached an empty lane at the light, a Civic jumped into lane w/o signaling. It was close, but no accident. I’ve upgraded my brakes, disc on all corners/new booster/new proportioning valve, yet the car still does not stop quick. Problem turned out to be a combination of a bad brake check valve and low engine vacuum. Motor is stock, so that’s really problematic. After some more cam research, it turns out I don’t need all of the cam duration built into the grind which brought me here in the first place asking about transmission stalls. TBH, the only reason I upgraded the OEM 200-R4 stall to the SS version was because I was fixated upon how hard the 2000 stall launched Grand Nationals (I had an El Camino before the Impala). Didn’t know all stalls have a range or that range fluctuates based upon car characteristics. I can still get the hp & TORQUE numbers (400+), at the flywheel, I want using a cam with a smaller duration, less overlap and higher lift. Definitely don’t need a 2200 – 2800 stall and may not even need the one I have 1800-2200. Besides, the lower duration will give me a better vacuum signal, even with a 110 LSA, which my brakes would definitely appreciate.
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      August 20, 2025
      
      Hi Ernest,
      I think you’ve hit the nail on the head with your realization. A lot of people get caught up in chasing stall speed just because they see how hard certain cars launch, like Grand Nationals, but the stall has to fit the whole combination and the way the car is actually used. Your point about traffic in Southern California is very real too. A car that’s constantly fighting against the converter isn’t going to be fun to live with day to day, no matter how quick it leaves a stoplight.
      On your specific setup, you’re absolutely right that a camshaft with less duration and overlap is going to help engine vacuum, which directly ties into your braking issues. More vacuum will not only get your brakes back where they should be, but it will also give you better idle quality and lower-speed drivability. That cam change alone may make you feel like the car is “lighter on its feet” without touching the converter.
      You’re also correct about stall ranges not being a fixed number. Every converter reacts differently depending on weight, gearing, tire size, and torque curve. That’s why you noticed that your current 1800–2200 stall might not even be necessary with a cam that builds torque lower in the range. With your big Impala, if you pick a cam that makes strong torque in the 1500–4500 window, you’ll find that an OEM or mild stall converter actually feels very responsive while keeping heat and drivability in check.
      So in short, yes, I agree with the direction you’re moving toward. For your build, keeping a mild stall is the smarter choice since you’ll still hit your horsepower and torque goals with the right cam profile. You’ll also solve your vacuum issue and make the car more enjoyable in real-world driving conditions.
      If you’d like to go over some specific camshaft series or converter options that would complement this new direction, I’d recommend giving our tech team a call at 1-800-345-4545. They can help you pick the exact match for your goals.
      
      Reply
Alan

August 12, 2025

Hey thanks a bunch! I really appreciate it!

Reply
Alan

August 9, 2025

Hi I need a converter recommendation. I have an 01 f-150 crew. It has a 5.4 2v with trick flow cams. The cams are Hydraulic Roller, Adv. Duration 262/264, Lift .550/.550, Lobe Sep. 112. The power band is 1500 – 5000. It has a 4r70w with lockup and 3.55 gears. The engine makes 310 hp and 380 ft lbs. I currently have a 2000 stall Hughes converter in it. It still seems sluggish on take off. It’s a daily driver with occasional highway use. The tires now are 31” and I’m considering 33” and changing to 3.73 gears.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  August 12, 2025
  
  Hi Alan,
  With your current setup, the 2000 stall Hughes converter is on the low side for your cam’s power band, especially with the Trick Flow grind you’re running. Those cams don’t start to really come alive until you’re closer to 2000–2200 rpm, so pairing them with a converter that stalls a bit higher will help your take-off feel less sluggish.
  For a daily driver with occasional highway use, something in the 2400–2600 stall range would likely wake it up without making it feel loose or inefficient at cruising speeds. Since you’ve got the 4R70W with lockup, you can still keep highway rpm in check. A quality street/strip converter from brands like Hughes Performance, TCI, or B&M in that range would be worth looking into.
  If you go up to 33-inch tires and 3.73 gears, that will also help get the rpm back into a better spot for take-off, especially with the slightly taller rubber. I’d suggest you choose the stall speed first based on the current gearing and tire size, then recheck once you change gears to make sure you’re still in the sweet spot.
  If you’d like to go over the best options in detail, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech specialist.
  
  Reply
Daniel Alexander

August 2, 2025

have a daily driver 87 C10 2wd truck, 383 stroker, roller cam .525/.525 113lsa TH400 not a drag car or racing just a daily driver truck it has currently a 2500 stall converter in it and it is an absolute dog from a stop until about 2-3000 rpm also feel like you have the rev the heck out of it to get going. what stall should i get to make it much more peppy off the line from a stop and for normal around town stop light to stop light and some highway driving

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  August 4, 2025
  
  Hey Daniel,
  Thanks for the detailed breakdown. It sounds like the 2500 stall converter might be a little mismatched for your combo, especially for daily driver use. With your 383 stroker and a roller cam at .525 lift on a 113 LSA, your engine is probably making decent torque down low, but not enough to make that converter feel lively off the line, especially paired with the TH400 and 2WD weight.
  For better drivability and stoplight-to-stoplight performance, you might benefit from dropping to a 2000–2200 stall converter. This will tighten up the feel off the line, give you better throttle response, and still play nice with your cam without forcing you to rev it hard just to get rolling. You’ll want a unit that’s tuned for street manners, not race-only flash stalls.
  That said, your rear gear ratio and tire size can also influence what stall range works best. If you’re still running tall gears or stock tires, even a smaller stall change can make a big difference in how responsive the truck feels.
  Call us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to one of our tech specialists. They can go over your whole setup in more detail and recommend a converter that’ll help bring that truck to life off the line.
  
  Reply
Robert Frazier

July 28, 2025

I’d like a converter recommendation please. Changing from 4-speed to automatic.
280″ Inline 6 cylinder, race only.
1/8 mile only
2300#
400HP
Chrysler 727, 2.45 first gear 5.86 rear gear
29″ tire
Foot brake
NO power adders
Open headers
Intake–258 @ .050 .621 lift
Exhaust–264 @ .050 .616 lift
106 lobe sep.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  July 29, 2025
  
  Hey Robert, thanks for sharing the details of your build. That’s a really cool setup and it’s great to see someone racing an inline-six in the 1/8 mile.
  With your 280-inch inline 6 making 400 horsepower, a 727 transmission, 2.45 first gear, 5.86 rear gear, and a 29-inch tire in a lightweight 2300-pound race-only car, you’re going to need a high-stall race converter that flashes in the 5200 to 5500 RPM range. That cam profile (258/264 duration at .050 with over .620 lift and a tight 106 LSA) makes power up high, so you want your converter to hit where the engine comes alive. Since you’re foot braking with no transbrake, you’ll want a converter that’s loose enough to help you leave hard without pushing through the brakes at the line.
  I’d recommend looking into a race-spec converter from brands like ATI, TCI, or Hughes, and let the manufacturer custom-spec it based on your full setup. You’re in that zone where a standard shelf converter likely won’t do you justice — this is a case where a custom or semi-custom build is worth it.
  If you’d like help picking the right unit or want to double-check compatibility, give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and talk with one of our tech support specialists. We’ll make sure you get a converter that’s matched perfectly for your combo. Thanks again for the great question!
  
  Reply
  1. Robert
    
    July 29, 2025
    
    Thank you for the information. It pays to hear from someone that knows!!
    
    Reply
2. Robert Frazier
  
  July 30, 2025
  
  Going to change to a 904 transmission with a 2.77 first gear.
  How will that change the converter choice?
  
  Reply
  1. Pete Mitchell
    
    July 31, 2025
    
    Hi Robert,
    Swapping to a 904 transmission with the 2.77 first gear will definitely affect your torque converter choice. That lower first gear ratio gives you more mechanical advantage off the line, which means you can typically get away with a slightly lower stall speed than you would with a taller gear. That said, the ideal converter stall still depends on your engine’s camshaft profile, compression ratio, vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, and tire size.
    If you’re running a mild cam with good low-end torque, you might aim for something in the 2,200 to 2,800 RPM range for street-strip use. If the engine is more radical or you’re racing, you may need to go higher. The change to 2.77 first gear will help your 60-foot time, but you still want the converter matched to where your engine makes power.
    For a solid recommendation, we’d need more info about your engine setup and vehicle use. Feel free to call us at 1-800-345-4545 and talk to one of our tech specialists. They’ll get you dialed in with the right combo.
    
    Reply
James

July 16, 2025

Hello, I have a 67 gmc custom, ordered a smeding 406 eliminator, I’m running a th350 with 411s out back tire size is 275x60x15, was wondering what stall would be best for this combination?
Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  July 16, 2025
  
  Hey James,
  That sounds like a killer setup with the Smeding 406 and 4.11 gears in your ’67 GMC. With your tire size and TH350, you’ve got a strong combo for getting off the line quick.
  For your engine and gear ratio, a torque converter in the 2800 to 3200 RPM stall range should work really well. That’ll let the motor get into its powerband before the converter fully locks up, which will help with acceleration and keep the truck feeling snappy. If your Smeding cam is on the more aggressive side, leaning closer to 3200 might be the sweet spot. If it’s more mild, 2800 will still give you a solid performance boost without being too loose for cruising.
  If you want help dialing in the perfect converter for how you plan to drive the truck, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-345-4545 and one of our tech specialists will walk you through it. Appreciate you reaching out!
  
  Reply
Jose

May 20, 2025

How’s I got a 1964 C10 and was wondering if you can point me in the right direction to get a proper stall converter for my 5.3 setup? It’s nothing crazy, stock intake for now shaved off all emissions, Howard Rattler Cam hrs-198035-09
Basic Operating RPM Range:2,200-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
234
Advertised Intake Duration:
275
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
282
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
109
….. I also got 80 lb injectors. https://mostplusauto.com/products/fu…aro-g8-8x-80lb .. Installed springs, pushrods and had the heads redone, LS7 Lifters, for exhaust I’m using long tube headers (1″7/8). I am also installing electric fans if that needs to be mentioned, got rid of anything emissions related. As for transmission it’s the stock 4L60E with the stock torque converter. (Want a manual but for the time being and needing the truck mobile auto it is). I was thinking of getting a corvette servo for the tranny not to sure if that would be a good idea or not…the rear end has 3.27’s if memory serves me right was also considering 3.73 or 4.10’s but kind of lost with the stall converter. the truck weighs about 35-3700 with a 28.6″ tall tire

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  May 22, 2025
  
  Hi Jose,
  Thanks for laying out the details of your build—you’re well on your way to having a strong street machine. With your 5.3L LS setup in the ’64 C10, paired with the Howard’s Rattler cam (226/234 @ .050, 109 LSA), long tubes, stock intake, 80 lb injectors, 4L60E, and 3.27 gears, you’re right to consider upgrading the torque converter to match the cam’s powerband.
  Your cam’s basic operating range starts around 2,200 RPM and peaks over 6,000, so your stock converter is definitely holding the combo back. For your build, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 3,000 to 3,200 RPM range would be a much better match. It will allow the engine to reach the torque curve faster and give you the crisp throttle response you’re looking for, especially with the 109-degree lobe separation giving it that aggressive idle.
  If you decide to keep the 3.27 gears, this stall range will still work, though you’ll get even better off-the-line response with 3.73s or 4.10s—something worth considering if you’re focused on acceleration. That said, since you’re planning to drive the truck and need it mobile, your current setup will benefit immediately from a converter upgrade, even before any gear swap.
  As for the Corvette servo upgrade in the 4L60E, it’s a popular mod that helps firm up shifts, especially under load. It won’t hurt and may actually extend the life of the trans under the added torque from your cam and tune.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you dial in the right converter and supporting parts for your setup.
  
  Reply
  1. Jose
    
    May 25, 2025
    
    Thank you for the quick response Pete. My only question about that stall speed is the daily drivability, as I do plan to daily often in city and highway traffic as well as just cruising along enjoying the road. That being said will my transmission and torque converter at that stall speed like cruising along?
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      May 28, 2025
      
      You’re very welcome, Jose. That is a great follow-up question.
      A stall converter in the 2800 to 3200 RPM range, like we mentioned for your 5.3L/4L60E setup with the Rattler cam, can absolutely still be streetable, even for daily driving. However, there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure it stays enjoyable and reliable:
      Lock-Up Converter: As long as you’re using a lock-up style torque converter (which most 4L60E converters are), it will lock in higher gears during highway cruising. This eliminates slip and heat buildup at cruising speeds, keeping the RPMs low and fuel efficiency decent.
      City Driving: In stop-and-go traffic, a higher stall converter will allow the engine to rev into the cam’s power band before fully engaging. You may notice a slightly looser feel at low speeds, but it should still be smooth as long as the converter matches the cam.
      Transmission Health: Keeping the transmission cool is key. With a higher stall, you’ll generate a bit more heat under normal driving conditions. A good trans cooler is highly recommended if you don’t already have one installed.
      Cruising Comfort: With 3.27 gears and your tire height, you’ll be sitting around 1800–2200 RPM at typical highway speeds. The converter will be locked up at that point, so cruising will feel normal without excessive RPM or slip.
      Bottom line: if you go with a quality lock-up stall converter that matches your cam, it will behave well both in the city and on the highway. It’ll give you the throttle response and performance you want while still being comfortable for cruising.
      If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
      
      Reply
Chuck

May 18, 2025

I have a 2009 pontiac G8 6.0 , its had a cam put in it not sure which I bought it like it is . It has been ran on the Dyno and produced like 440 to rear wheels . Transmission just went and getting rebuilt curious on what stall I should run has factory gears in reared

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  May 22, 2025
  
  Hi Chuck,
  With your 2009 Pontiac G8 making around 440 horsepower at the wheels, it’s safe to say the cam is fairly aggressive, especially for a 6.0L. Since you’re not sure of the cam specs but already have a dyno number to go off of, we can work from that to recommend a stall range that matches the likely powerband and keeps drivability in check.
  Assuming the cam’s power starts coming in around 2,500 RPM and pulls strong to 6,000+, a torque converter with a 3,200 to 3,600 RPM stall would be a solid match. That range will let the engine rev up into the meat of its powerband before loading up, which helps with both launch and overall responsiveness—especially important in a performance street build like yours.
  Since you’re keeping the factory rear gears, which are typically 2.92 or 3.27 depending on your G8’s trim, a higher-stall lockup converter will help balance low-speed drivability with strong acceleration. Make sure the transmission shop is aware of your stall choice so they can match any upgrades like a hardened input shaft or improved clutch packs to handle the extra torque and heat.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you select the right torque converter to match your setup and get the most out of your rebuilt transmission.
  
  Reply
Nick

April 30, 2025

hello, I have a mostly stock 8.1 in a c10 with a comp cam 249-46-422-9 Xtreme Energy XR270HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Lift .510/.510 Duration 270/276 Lobe Separation Angle: 114° RPM Range 1200-5200. It also has 373 gears in the rear end running a 700r4 trans. looking for help with a stall on a torque converter.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  May 2, 2025
  
  Hi Nick,
  Thanks for the detailed info. With your 8.1L big block in a C10, matched with a Comp XR270HR camshaft, 3.73 gears, and a 700R4, you’ve got a solid street-performance combination. That cam’s powerband (roughly 1,200 to 5,200 RPM) means it starts making useful torque just off idle, but it still benefits from a converter that allows the engine to rev up a bit before engaging fully.
  Given your setup, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2,200 to 2,400 RPM range would be ideal. This stall range will complement the cam’s low-end while also helping with part-throttle drivability and throttle response. It will also keep the engine in a more usable part of its powerband under light-to-moderate acceleration, without being too loose for street use.
  Since you’re using a 700R4, it’s important to choose a converter that retains lock-up capability unless you’re using a standalone controller or have converted it for non-lockup use. A converter in this stall range will still cruise comfortably on the highway when lock-up engages, especially with your 3.73 gears.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you choose a converter that fits your transmission, cam profile, and driving style.
  
  Reply
Austin Johnson

April 24, 2025

94 camaro z28 tick performance stage 2 cam kit th350 and 4:11 gears and has a transbreak what do you recommend i want to drive it on the highway

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 29, 2025
  
  Hi Austin,
  With your 1994 Camaro Z28 running a TH350, 4.11 rear gears, a Tick Performance Stage 2 cam, and a transbrake, you’ve got a solid street-strip setup. The Tick Stage 2 cam is aggressive enough that your engine’s powerband likely starts around 3,000 RPM and pulls hard through the mid-to-upper range, which makes stall speed an important factor in getting the car off the line properly, especially with a transbrake involved.
  For your combo, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 3,600 to 4,000 RPM range would be a good fit. This allows the engine to get into its powerband quickly when launching from a stop, especially when using the transbrake at the track. Since you’re running a TH350 (no overdrive) and 4.11 gears, highway cruising RPM will be fairly high, but that’s the trade-off with a drag-oriented setup.
  If highway drivability is a major concern, you might want to look into switching to a transmission with overdrive down the road, such as a 200-4R or 4L60E with a lock-up converter, which will give you more flexibility between street comfort and track performance.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you find the right converter for your build and driving goals.
  
  Reply
Brent Mcgowan

April 11, 2025

Hi what stall do u recommend? I have a 1972 chevy 2500 2wd 3.42 gear with 29 inch tire and th350 trans. I’m installing a 383 smedding hot rod engine 420 hp. Will be running holley 650 double pumper. Truck will be used for mostly cruising with an occasional show off moment or two. Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 11, 2025
  
  Hi Brent,
  
  Thanks for the details on your setup. With your 1972 Chevy 2500 2WD, 3.42 gears, TH350 transmission, and 29-inch tires, the combination is well-suited for a solid balance of drivability and performance. The Smeding 383 Hot Rod engine making 420 horsepower and paired with a Holley 650 double pumper is a strong street-friendly setup with good low- and mid-range torque.
  For your intended use of mostly cruising with the occasional full-throttle blast, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2,400 to 2,800 RPM range would be a good match. This stall range will let the engine get into its torque curve quickly without being too loose for normal driving. It will also give you a noticeable improvement in throttle response without sacrificing street manners.
  If you need additional help selecting a torque converter, please contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
William Barden Moody

April 10, 2025

I have a pontiac 461 stroker. Heads flow 290CFM Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XR288HR Hydraulic Roller Cam . Turbo 400 transmission and 373 rear gear. Which Converter do you recomend.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 11, 2025
  
  Hi William,
  
  You’ve got a strong combination with your 461 Pontiac stroker, 290 CFM heads, the Comp Cams XR288HR hydraulic roller cam, a Turbo 400 transmission, and 3.73 gears. The XR288HR cam has around 236 and 242 degrees duration at .050 with .520 and .540 lift, and it really starts to come alive around 2,500 RPM and pulls hard to about 6,200. To get the most out of that setup on the street or at the strip, a torque converter in the 3,000 to 3,400 RPM stall range would be ideal.
  This stall range will allow your engine to rev up into the powerband quickly, giving you strong off-the-line acceleration and better throttle response without being too loose for street driving. Since you are running a TH400 and 3.73 gears, you have the drivetrain to handle a higher stall converter and still maintain decent street manners. Make sure you also run a good transmission cooler, especially with the added heat a higher stall converter can generate.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Chip Carlson

April 4, 2025

I am building a 70 cutlass .with a 05 ls1 5.3 Silverado engine .the transmission is a 4l60e out of a Chevrolet van 2008 . The car has a pose rear end stock gears .tires are 255 45 18. It’s a cruiser wit a little hot roding .trying to get a toque converter for it any help would be greatly appreciated

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 10, 2025
  
  Hi Chip,
  
  Thanks for the question — sounds like a fun project! Dropping an ’05 LS-based 5.3L from a Silverado into your 1970 Cutlass with a 4L60E and stock-geared posi rear end makes for a reliable cruiser with just the right amount of hot rod attitude. Since you’re keeping it mostly street-driven with some occasional spirited driving, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2200–2400 RPM range would be a great fit.
  
  That stall range will help bring the LS engine into its powerband quicker, giving you snappier throttle response without compromising daily drivability or highway cruising. It’s especially helpful when paired with the taller gearing commonly found in stock 4L60E vans and factory posi setups. Plus, your 255/45R18 tires (about 27″ tall) strike a good balance between traction and RPM range.
  
  If you’re planning future upgrades like a cam swap or deeper gears, a slightly higher stall (up to 2600–2800) could be considered — but for your current combo, 2200–2400 is the sweet spot.
  
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll be happy to help you pick the perfect converter to bring your LS-powered Cutlass to life!
  
  Reply
Darren

April 4, 2025

I have a 71 Nova with a 383 stroker, 9.6:1 compression, bowtie 2.02/1.60 heads, comp xe268h cam with .477/.480 lift 224/230 duration @.050, air gap dual plane intake, 650 speed demon vs carb, TH350 trans, & 3:42 posi rear with a 26″ tire. Guessing should be close to 400hp and over 400ft/lbs torque. What converter would you suggest?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 10, 2025
  
  Hi Darren,
  
  You’ve got a great street-performance combo going in your ’71 Nova with that 383 stroker. With your Comp XE268H cam (224/230 duration @ .050″, .477/.480 lift), 9.6:1 compression, dual plane intake, TH350, and 3.42 rear gears with 26″ tires, you’re working with a solid mid-range torque setup — right in the sweet spot for a fun street car that can still light up the tires when asked.
  
  For your build, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2400–2600 RPM range would be a great match. That stall range complements the cam’s powerband (which starts pulling hard around 2000 RPM), allowing the engine to rev into its torque curve without feeling sluggish off the line. It’ll give you crisp acceleration and better throttle response, especially during part-throttle takeoffs and spirited driving, without sacrificing driveability.
  
  If you’re doing mostly street driving with occasional hard launches, this stall range will offer the right balance between performance and comfort. And since you’re running a TH350 with decent gears and a relatively light vehicle, you won’t need anything more aggressive unless you’re planning drag strip duty.
  
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help make sure you get the perfect torque converter for your Nova’s setup.
  
  Reply
  1. David McGee
    
    January 19, 2026
    
    Hello , Im building a 65 Pontiac Lemans , 406ci (4.15bx3.80s) TH400 3.55 gear , 275/50-15 Drag Radials. Car WT with me 3200 Summit Cam SUM2802, 10.5 comp, 62 heads, 2.11 in 1.77 ex 72cc. looking for a converter. not worried about street going to bracket race. O cam works 2200-5500. Going from 4spd to auto.
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      January 19, 2026
      
      David, with your 406 Pontiac, TH400, 3.55 gear, drag radials, and a cam that is happy from roughly 2200 to 5500 rpm, a converter in the 3000 to 3200 stall range is going to put you in a very good window for bracket racing. That stall speed will let the engine leave right where the cam and cylinder heads start to work without blowing through the converter on the big end, which is important for consistency. Given the weight of the car and the fact that you are not concerned with street manners, a quality 10 inch race oriented converter with good efficiency up top is a solid match. Brands like TCI, Hughes, and B&M all offer race focused converter series that work very well behind a TH400 in this power range and are commonly used in bracket cars for repeatability. Going tighter than about 3000 will likely slow the car on the launch, and going much looser than 3200 is usually unnecessary with your gear and cam combo unless the engine is making power much higher than stated. If you want to fine tune it further based on exact torque output or shift rpm, our tech team can help dial that in. You can call 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a tech specialist who can help you lock in the best converter choice for your build.
      
      Reply
Clyde Marchand

March 21, 2025

I have a 2000 Silverado 5.3l with 25-TSPLL2082214114 Texas Speed Stage 1 cam,
Shorty headers, 30.5 diameter tires, 4.11 rear gear, stall converter 1800
Is this converter stall ok?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 21, 2025
  
  Hi Clyde,
  Thanks for your question! With your 2000 Silverado 5.3L, Texas Speed Stage 1 cam (25-TSPLL2082214114), shorty headers, 4.11 gears, and 30.5” tires, you’ve got a nicely balanced setup for daily performance with a bit of extra punch. The cam you’re running has a moderate profile that likely starts making strong power around 1,800 to 2,000 RPM, with a usable powerband that climbs from there.
  Your current 1800 stall converter is borderline acceptable. It’s not harmful, but it may be a little tight for that cam, especially when launching from a stop or trying to take advantage of mid-range torque. A slightly higher stall, around 2200-2400 RPM, would allow the engine to get into the meat of the powerband quicker, improving throttle response and low-end acceleration—especially with your 4.11 gears and larger tires helping put that power to the ground. That said, if the truck feels good to drive now and you’re not experiencing bogging or sluggish takeoff, you can certainly continue running the 1800 stall. But if you’re looking to maximize the cam’s performance and improve off-the-line response, upgrading to a 2200-2400 stall converter would be a noticeable improvement.
  If you’d like help finding the right converter for your setup, give JEGS Tech Support a call at 1-800-345-4545, and we’ll make sure you get a perfect match.
  
  Reply
Jimmie Boyd

March 12, 2025

I am re-building a 1967 Chevy C10 with a 350 motor bored .40 over.. I do not know the cam , but was probably stock. ( purchased motor already rebuilt.. I need to know what torque converter I will need with standard pickup rear gears. ( not identified yet) . Yes I know it is not much info , but I am building a stock pickup , not a racer. Any help would be appreciated. Also info about the 168 tooth flexplate. Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 18, 2025
  
  Hi Jimmie,
  
  Since you’re rebuilding a 1967 Chevy C10 with a .040 over 350, and it’s likely running a stock or mild cam, you’ll want a torque converter designed for a stock or near-stock application. Without knowing the exact rear-end gear ratio, we can assume it’s in the 3.08 to 3.73 range, which was common for these trucks. For a stock rebuild used primarily for street driving, a factory-style torque converter with a stall speed between 1,600-1,900 RPM is ideal. This stall range ensures smooth drivability, efficient power transfer, and good low-end torque for everyday use. If you later identify the rear gears and they happen to be numerically higher (like 3.73 or above), you could consider a 2,000-2,200 stall converter for slightly improved acceleration without sacrificing drivability.
  
  Regarding the 168-tooth flexplate, it’s a common size used with internally balanced small-block Chevy (SBC) engines. Your torque converter will need to match the bolt pattern of the flexplate, and most stock-style converters are designed to fit either a 153-tooth (10.75” bolt pattern) or 168-tooth (11.5” bolt pattern) flexplate. Since you’re building a stock truck, a standard GM TH350 or TH400 torque converter that fits a 168-tooth flexplate will be the simplest option. If you need help choosing the exact converter for your setup, give JEGS Tech Support a call at 1-800-345-4545, and we’ll help you find the best match for your C10. Hope this helps, and good luck with your build!
  
  Reply
Boar76

March 10, 2025

I need to know which torque converter I’ll need.
1978 F150 4×4 w/460 running a 272 cam and Installing a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission. Running either 34 or 35 tires. Thanks and appreciate the help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 18, 2025
  
  For your 1978 F-150 4×4 with a 460 big-block, a 272 cam, a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission, and 34-35” tires, you’ll need a torque converter that balances low-end torque and off-road drivability while keeping highway cruising in check. Since your 272 camshaft is relatively mild, your powerband likely starts around 1,500-1,600 RPM, meaning a 2,000-2,400 RPM stall converter would be ideal. This stall range will allow the truck to launch smoothly while providing improved throttle response over a stock converter, without excessive slippage at highway speeds. Additionally, since you’re running large 34-35” tires, your final drive ratio plays a big role—if you have numerically higher gears like 4.10s or 4.56s, the converter will engage sooner and help maintain power through the drivetrain. Given that you’re using a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission, I recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545 to ensure you get a converter that matches the specific input shaft and flexplate configuration of your setup. With the right torque converter, your F-150 will have the power and drivability needed for both on-road and off-road use!
  
  Reply
Allen Baldwin

March 2, 2025

I have a 1971 F100 4000- 4200 lbs, I have a 289 4bbl, headers, dual exhaust, cam isValve Lift Intake:
.448
Valve Lift Exhaust:
.480
Duration Intake:
259
Duration Exhaust:
267
Duration at 050 Intake:
205
Duration at 050 Exhaust:
213
Lobe Separation:
112
Intake Centerline:
108
Gears are 3.50, tire 28″ tall, drive daily / stop light drag.
I putting a C4 with 24 spline in, what would be the best Torque converter for street performance?
Thank You

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 4, 2025
  
  Hi Allen,
  Your 1971 F100 with a 289 V8, headers, dual exhaust, and a cam with .448/.480 lift, 205/213 duration at .050, 112° LSA, 3.50 rear gears, 28” tires, and a C4 transmission (24 spline) is set up nicely for street performance and stoplight fun. To get the best out of your setup, you’ll need a torque converter that matches your cam’s powerband and provides strong off-the-line performance without sacrificing drivability.
  Recommended Stall Speed for Your Setup
  Based on your cam specs, your powerband likely starts around 1,800 RPM and pulls to about 5,500 RPM. With 3.50 gears and 28” tires, a stall speed in the 2,200-2,600 RPM range would give you:
  Good low-end torque for street driving.
  Quick launches from stoplights without feeling too loose.
  A comfortable balance between daily drivability and performance.
  Best Torque Converter Options for Street Performance
  2,200-2,400 RPM Stall Converter:
  Ideal if you want strong low-end torque for quick acceleration while keeping highway RPMs manageable.
  Works well with your mild cam and 3.50 gears.
  2,400-2,600 RPM Stall Converter:
  Best if you want a bit more punch off the line without losing street manners.
  Provides a noticeable improvement in acceleration without excessive slippage.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup Converter?
  Since your C4 transmission is non-lockup, you’ll need a non-lockup converter for compatibility. This type of converter:
  Maximizes power transfer at lower RPMs.
  Ensures your truck feels strong off the line and holds power through shifts.
  Best Brands for Performance & Value
  For a budget-friendly yet reliable converter, consider:
  Hughes Performance: Known for consistent stall speeds and durability.
  B&M Racing: Offers good mid-range converters for street and strip.
  TCI Automotive: Great balance of performance and price.
  All of these are available from JEGS
  
  Best Stall Speed: 2,400-2,600 RPM for strong launches and street performance.
  Converter Type: Non-lockup for your C4 transmission.
  Brands to Consider: Hughes, B&M, or TCI for reliability and value.
  If you need help picking the right torque converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. We can help you find the best match for your F100 and make sure you get the most out of your setup. Your 289-powered F100 is going to move!
  
  Reply
Phil Quinn

February 17, 2025

I’m building a 55 Chrysler resto mod. Mostly looking to use as a cruiser with a little somethin’. Looking for recommendation for torque converter.
4160 weight
331 HEMI
Herbert flat tappet hyd cam dur 282/222@.50, lift.465, lobe center 111, center line 108
700r4
28” tires
replacing rear end not sure about gear ratio to use.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 18, 2025
  
  Hi Phil,
  Your 1955 Chrysler resto-mod with a 331 HEMI, Herbert hydraulic flat tappet cam (282/222 @ .050″, .465″ lift, 111° LSA), a 700R4 transmission, and 28” tires is a great platform for a cruiser with some added punch. Since you’re still deciding on the rear-end gear ratio, let’s break down what torque converter will work best based on different gear choices.
  Key Considerations for Your Torque Converter Selection
  Camshaft RPM Range:
  Your cam has a moderate duration (222° @ .050”), meaning it makes good low-end torque but starts to wake up around 2,000+ RPM.
  Ideal stall speed: 2200-2600 RPM to match this powerband.
  Vehicle Weight & Transmission:
  Your Chrysler weighs 4160 lbs, so a slightly higher stall is helpful for acceleration.
  The 700R4’s lower first gear (3.06:1) helps with initial takeoff, allowing for a mid-range stall converter without feeling sluggish.
  Rear Gear Ratio (If Undecided):
  If you go with a 3.42-3.73 gear ratio: A 2400-2600 RPM stall converter will be the best fit for smooth drivability and power delivery.
  If you choose a 3.08-3.23 ratio: A lower 2200-2400 stall may be better for highway cruising efficiency.
  Recommended Torque Converters from JEGS
  Based on your setup and goals, here are three great options:
  1. TCI Saturday Night Special 2400 Stall Converter (JEGS Part # 890-242600)
  Best for: Balanced Street Performance & Highway Cruising
  Stall Speed: ~2400 RPM
  Why?
  Ideal for a camshaft in the 2200+ RPM powerband.
  Works well with 700R4’s 3.06 first gear and 3.42+ rear gears.
  Great for cruising with occasional spirited driving.
  2. B&M Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter (JEGS Part # 130-70419)
  Best for: Mild Street Performance with Stronger Off-the-Line Feel
  Stall Speed: ~2400-2600 RPM
  Why?
  Gives better acceleration from a stop.
  Works well with mid-range camshaft duration like yours.
  Good fit for 3.42-3.73 gears, but still okay with 3.23s.
  3. Hughes Performance Street Master 2200-2500 Stall (JEGS Part # 512-21-25L)
  Best for: A Smooth Cruiser That Can Still Get Up & Go
  Stall Speed: ~2200-2500 RPM
  Why?
  Best option if you end up using 3.08-3.23 gears.
  Great for a relaxed yet responsive driving experience.
  Works with your cam’s low-mid powerband without excessive slip.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler is Mandatory:
  A 700R4 with a higher-stall converter generates more heat—install a dedicated transmission cooler to protect it.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup:
  Since you’re using a 700R4, consider a lockup torque converter for highway cruising efficiency.
  Best Rear Gear Ratio for Your Goals:
  For better acceleration: 3.42-3.73 gears are ideal.
  For highway efficiency: 3.08-3.23 gears will keep RPMs lower at cruising speed.
  Your 331 HEMI 1955 Chrysler is going to be a smooth and powerful cruiser! Based on your cam and weight, a 2400-2600 stall converter is the best fit. Once you decide on your rear-end gears, you can fine-tune the stall speed to match.
  If you need help ordering the right converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Enjoy the build—your resto-mod is going to be awesome!
  
  Reply
2. Don Corneau
  
  February 20, 2025
  
  Hi Phil,
  66 Mustang, 289 .030, 12.5.1 compression, comp cam 320/640 solid roller, 280@.050, comp roller lifters, roller rockers, Afr 185 heads, 2.02/1.60, eagle rods, victor junior, 750cfm dominator. 9 inch w/4.10, 245/60/15 rear tires. Just going to be a cruising. Cam 4500-8500rpm. What converter do you recommend. Thanks, Don
  
  Reply
  1. Pete Mitchell
    
    February 20, 2025
    
    Don, we think you meant to ask us the question instead of another reader, if so:
    Your 1966 Mustang with a high-compression 289 (.030 over), solid roller cam (280° @ .050, .640” lift, 4500-8500 RPM powerband), AFR 185 heads, Victor Jr. intake, Holley 750 Dominator, and 4.10 rear gears is a serious setup—even for a cruiser! Choosing the right torque converter is critical to getting the best performance and drivability out of your build.
    Recommended Stall Speed for Your Setup
    Since your Comp Cams solid roller cam has a 4500-8500 RPM powerband, you’ll need a high-stall torque converter that allows the engine to launch into the cam’s effective RPM range. Here’s why:
    A 4500-5000 RPM stall converter is ideal—this allows your high-revving 289 to reach its powerband quickly without bogging.
    Too low of a stall (below 4000) will make the car sluggish off the line and hurt performance.
    Your 4.10 rear gears help, but you still need the right converter to get into the cam’s sweet spot fast.
    Best Torque Converter Type for Your Mustang
    Non-Lockup Converter – Since your car is built for high-RPM cruising and not highway fuel efficiency, a non-lockup converter is the best choice.
    8″ or 9″ Race-Style Converter – A smaller-diameter converter will allow the engine to flash up to the stall speed quickly.
    Best Stall Speed: 4500-5000 RPM
    Converter Type: Non-lockup, race-style converter
    Diameter: 8″ or 9″
    Best Brands to Consider: Look for performance-oriented brands that specialize in high-stall converters, such as TCI, Hughes, and others available at JEGS.com.
    With your high-compression, high-RPM solid roller setup, a 4500-5000 stall converter is the best choice to match your cam’s powerband. Since there are many variations in torque converter designs, I’d recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545 to find the exact converter that fits your transmission and driving style.
    Enjoy cruising your high-revving ‘66 Mustang!
    
    Reply
Boss Kimbrell

February 11, 2025

I have a daily driver 9:1 compression 496 with a Comp Cams .652/.652 lift 255/262 @.050” and 114° lsa ‘turbo/nitrous’ cam with a stated ’3500-7000’ peak power range. The truck weighs in at 4360lbs w/me in it and currently has 4.11 gears (‘may’ go to 3.73s). Although I knew it was a little tight, I ran a 2800-3200 PTC for the last 2 years and actually loved it! Perfect street manners and still cut consistent 1.55 60’s BUT that was also with a 4L60E (that I managed to run 6.XXs in the 1/8th with a small shot of N2O btw)!
My question being after the 2 major changes: Just bolted on an F-1A-94 ProCharger and wouldn’t you know it, murdered my 60E the very next day just making 2nd/3rd street pulls. So, I’m now having a 4L80E built with full mvb and trans brake. Biggest difference being the blower (obviously) and going from the 3.06:1 low gear 60E to the 2.48:1 low gear 80E…I’ve got a SMOKING deal on another 2800-3200 for the 80E!

Will it be enough stall to NOT leave like a dog?! (still pulled the wheels with the 60E & 2800-3200 btw). My mind says a 3500 to maybe even 4000 would be ideal BUT I love a good deal and love good street manners even more. Thanks in advance!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 12, 2025
  
  Hi Boss, and thanks for the great question! Your daily-driven 496 big-block Chevy with 9:1 compression, a Comp Cams .652” lift 255/262 @.050” 114° LSA turbo/nitrous cam (3500-7000 RPM powerband), a ProCharged F-1A-94, and a 4L80E with a trans brake is a serious build! You’re also coming from a 4L60E with a 2800-3200 stall that worked well for your setup before the major changes.
  Now that you’ve switched to a 4L80E and added the ProCharger, let’s break down what stall speed will work best.
  Will the 2800-3200 Stall Be Enough?
  Short answer: It might work, but a higher stall would be ideal.
  Major Differences with the New Setup
  Blower Power Curve: Your F-1A-94 ProCharger significantly changes how the engine delivers power. Unlike nitrous, which is instant, the blower ramps up boost with RPM, so you need a converter that allows the engine to get into boost quickly.
  4L80E’s Taller 2.48 First Gear: The 4L80E’s 2.48 first gear is much taller than your old 4L60E’s 3.06 first gear. This means you lose mechanical leverage, which could make launching feel lazier with the same stall speed.
  Increased Vehicle Load: With 4360 lbs curb weight, a ProCharged BBC, and the 4L80E’s extra rotating mass, the converter needs to let the engine rev into boost sooner to avoid bogging.
  What Happens If You Keep the 2800-3200 Stall?
  Street Manners Will Be Excellent: If you’re prioritizing street manners, this stall will still work, but…
  Launch Performance Will Suffer: The blower won’t be in its powerband fast enough, and the taller first gear means less off-the-line grunt.
  Might Feel Lazy on the Hit: Since you’ve already felt the difference from the 4L60E’s better first gear, you may notice it takes longer to hit peak torque with the new setup.
  Ideal Stall Speed for Your ProCharged 496 & 4L80E
  Recommended Stall: 3500-4000 RPM
  Why?
  -Allows the engine to rev into boost sooner for better throttle response.
  -Compensates for the taller 2.48 first gear in the 4L80E.
  -Keeps street manners manageable, especially with a tight-stall, multi-disc lockup converter.
  -Helps avoid a “lazy launch” feeling compared to your old setup.
  Your Best Options
  If Street Manners Are the #1 Priority:
  A 3200-3500 stall with a tight design (like a multi-disc lockup)
  Good for cruising, but launches may feel softer than before.
  If You Want the Best Balance:
  A 3500-3800 stall (recommended for max efficiency with boost and gearing).
  Keeps power delivery smooth and still cuts 1.5X 60-foot times.
  If You Want Max Performance:
  A 4000 stall will wake up the ProCharger off the line and provide brutal launches.
  Still streetable but not as tight as a lower-stall unit.
  
  If the 2800-3200 is a “smoking deal,” it can work, but expect a softer launch.
  A 3500-4000 stall is ideal to optimize boost response, launch power, and 4L80E gearing.
  For the best of both worlds, consider a tight 3500 lockup converter (like a Circle D, PTC, or Yank).
  
  If you need help choosing a converter, feel free to call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545, we are more than happy to help you out! Your ProCharged 496 with the 4L80E is going to be a monster!
  
  Reply
Ernest Adams

February 9, 2025

Hello. I am looking for the optimum stall for my 200-R4. The current stall is 2000; however, a transmission shop i visited stated it felt more like 1800 – 2200. My car is a 72 Impala coupe. Curb weight is approximately 4200 lbs. Rear end gearing is 3.73 with 28″ diameter tires. As it sits now, I have the stock 350 with an aftermarket dual plane intake (Edelbrock 2101), stock flat-tappet cam (less than 205 @ 050 with a 112 LSA), a 600-cfm Performer carb (Edelbrock 1406), an HEI distributor and 1-5/8″ mid-length headers. I’m building a 388 stroker motor for the car with an emphasis upon low-end torque. Additional upgrades include a custom Erson hydraulic roller cam (222/222 @ 050 duration/110 LSA/1500 – 6000 rpm band), Street Warrior intake manifold (Weiand 1825) and a 650-cfm carburetor (Edelbrock 1906). Will the current stall suffice or should I upgrade that as well? Current heads are iron sbc casting (10110810) which are supposed to flow up 4500 rpm with a lift just under .500. Upgraded heads are Promaxx Project X Series 185cc aluminum heads which flow up to 6500 rpm with a .700 lift (cam’s lift is .510/.510 with a 1.5 RR). I will use 1.6 RR.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 10, 2025
  
  Hi Ernest,
  Your 1972 Impala coupe with a 200-4R transmission, 3.73 rear gears, and 28” tires is undergoing a serious performance boost with your 388 stroker build. Upgrading the stall converter is a crucial step to ensure your transmission matches the new engine’s characteristics.
  Will Your Current 2000 RPM Stall Work?
  Your current 1800-2200 RPM stall is fine for the stock 350, which has a mild cam and limited airflow. However, with your 388 stroker’s bigger cam (222/222 @ .050, 110 LSA, .510+ lift) and Promaxx heads, the powerband shifts higher. A 2000 stall is too low—it won’t allow the engine to reach its optimal torque range quickly enough.
  Recommended Stall Converter for Your 388 Stroker
  For your new engine setup, a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter is ideal. Here’s why:
  Matches the Cam & Powerband:
  Your larger cam’s RPM range means you need a converter that allows the engine to reach the sweet spot quickly.
  A 2800-3200 stall will provide stronger launches and better throttle response.
  Works with 3.73 Gears & 200-4R Transmission:
  Your 3.73 gears help low-end acceleration, but a higher-stall converter further enhances off-the-line performance.
  The 200-4R’s overdrive (.67 final gear ratio) keeps highway cruising RPMs reasonable, even with a higher-stall converter.
  Improves Low-End Torque Utilization:
  Your 388 stroker is built for torque, and a higher-stall converter prevents bogging at lower RPMs.
  The 1.6 rocker arms will increase valve lift slightly, which also favors a slightly higher stall.
  Best choice: A lockup 2800-3200 stall converter gives you the best of both worlds—performance and highway efficiency.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler: A high-capacity transmission cooler is mandatory with a higher-stall converter to prevent overheating.
  Converter Brand Recommendations: Consider Hughes Performance, FTI, or TCI for a high-quality 2800-3200 stall converter.
  So, For the current 350: The 2000 stall is fine.
  For the 388 stroker: Upgrade to a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter.
  Lockup? Yes, for highway cruising efficiency.
  Transmission Cooler? Yes, to prevent overheating.
  If you need assistance selecting the right torque converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. With this upgrade, your 388 stroker-powered Impala will be a whole new beast!
  
  Reply
  1. Ernest Adams
    
    February 12, 2025
    
    I am a little confused. My cam’s power band, 1500 – 5000 (6000), is based upon a standard sbc 350. Shouldn’t the additional engine displacement move the cam’s powerband approximately 200 – 500 rpm to the left rendering it effectively 1300 – 5600? If that’s the case, why would the stall move up?
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      February 12, 2025
      
      Hi Ernest,
      Great follow-up question! You’re absolutely right that increasing displacement shifts the cam’s effective powerband slightly lower, which is an important factor in choosing the right stall speed. Let’s go over why a higher-stall converter is still recommended despite that shift.
      Does the Larger Displacement Lower the Cam’s Powerband?
      Yes, a larger displacement engine (your 388 stroker) will move the cam’s powerband down by around 200-500 RPM, depending on airflow, compression, and tuning. That means your 1500-6000 RPM cam in a 350 SBC might now behave more like a 1300-5600 RPM cam in the 388.
      Why Would the Stall Speed Still Need to Be Higher?
      Even though the powerband shifts down slightly, the need for a higher stall speed isn’t based solely on the powerband—it’s about how quickly the engine can reach its optimal torque range. Here’s why:
      Larger Displacement = More Torque at All RPMs: Your 388 stroker produces significantly more torque than your stock 350 at all RPMs. More torque allows the engine to handle a higher-stall converter without excessive slippage or heat buildup.
      Matching the Stall to Your Cam’s Characteristics
      Your 222/222 duration cam with a 110 LSA is still more aggressive than the stock cam, meaning it needs some RPM before it really “comes alive.”
      A stall in the 2800-3200 RPM range ensures you launch with more power instead of waiting for the engine to climb into the torque curve.
      Vehicle Weight & Gearing Matter
      Your 1972 Impala is heavy (~4200 lbs), which means a higher stall helps get the car moving quicker.
      Your 3.73 rear gears already help low-end acceleration, but pairing them with a slightly higher-stall converter keeps you from lugging at takeoff.
      Converter Stall vs. Cruising RPM
      Your 200-4R’s overdrive (0.67 final gear ratio) means that even with a 2800-3200 stall, your highway RPMs remain reasonable.
      A lockup converter ensures efficiency once you’re cruising.
      So, why 2800-3200 RPM Stall?
      Yes, your cam’s powerband shifts lower due to the 388 stroker. However, the higher torque output and heavier vehicle require a higher stall to avoid sluggishness off the line.
      A 2800-3200 stall ensures better launches, quicker throttle response, and stronger acceleration, without negatively affecting highway drivability.
      For the stock 350: The 2000 stall is fine.
      For the 388 stroker: Upgrade to a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter.
      Lockup? Yes, for highway cruising efficiency.
      Transmission Cooler? Yes, to prevent overheating.
      
      The best way to confirm the above answer is to go directly to the camshaft manufacturer and ask for their recommendation. This will confirm the above information we have provided.
      
      As another option, you can call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545, we will be more than happy to help you out!
      
      Reply
      1. Ernest Adams
        
        February 12, 2025
        
        I called the tech number after reading your response and browsing Jegs for a 200-R4 torque convertor within that range. Unfortunately, I did not find one. I did find a 2500 and 3000 stall. Robert stated that each stall has a dynamic vice static operating range. So, a 2500 stall would actually range 2300 – 2700 (2800 – 3200 for the 3000 stall). Is that indeed the case? He also suggested going with the lower stall since the car would be used for cruising 96% of the time. My car will see ZERO track time. I just want lots of torque to move that car whenever I need to and to spin the tires occasionally.
      2. Ernest Adams
        
        February 12, 2025
        
        Also, what cam duration would you recommend for my current setup (OEM 350/cast iron heads 10110810/1800 – 2000 stall) until I finish assembling parts, building and installing the 388 (388 SHOULD be completed near the end of summer). I would like to spice up the 350 now with a new flat-tappet cam and lifter set that maximizes what’s there.
      3. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 13, 2025
        
        Hi Ernest,
        Thanks for following up! Let’s address both of your questions: torque converter stall range and cam selection for your current 350 while you build your 388 stroker.
        1. Understanding Torque Converter Stall Range
        Yes, Robert is correct—torque converters have a dynamic stall range rather than a fixed RPM. The actual stall speed varies depending on:
        Engine torque output (more torque = higher effective stall)
        Vehicle weight
        Gearing
        For example:
        A 2500 stall converter typically operates within 2300-2700 RPM and a 3000 stall converter operates within 2800-3200 RPM.
        2. Should You Choose the 2500 or 3000 Stall Converter?
        Since your car is used for 96% street cruising and zero track time, going with the 2500 stall makes sense. Here’s why:
        Street Manners: A 2500 stall will keep cruising RPMs closer to stock while still improving acceleration.
        Better Low-Speed Efficiency: Since the car won’t see the track, a higher stall (3000+) would be unnecessary and could make the car feel less responsive at lower speeds.
        Good Torque Utilization: A 2500 stall allows improved off-the-line acceleration without excessive slip in normal driving.
        Transmission Longevity: The 200-4R transmission benefits from a slightly lower stall for cooler operation during long drives.
        
        For your current 350 & upcoming 388 stroker: The 2500 stall (actual 2300-2700 RPM range) is the best choice for cruising and occasional tire-spinning fun.
        3. Best Flat-Tappet Cam for Your OEM 350 (Until the 388 is Ready)
        Since you want to maximize your current 350’s performance with a new cam and lifter set, here’s what we need to consider:
        
        Your OEM 350 heads (10110810 castings) flow best below 4500 RPM.
        Your current stall (1800-2000 RPM) limits you to a cam with good low-end torque.
        You want a street-friendly cam with better response, throttle feel, and occasional tire-spinning fun.
        
        Best All-Around Street Cam:
        Comp Cams XE256H (12-234-2)
        Duration @ .050”: 212°/218°
        Lift: .447″/.454″
        LSA: 110°
        RPM Range: 1000-5200 RPM
        Why? Great low-end torque for your heavy car and small stall. Excellent for street use and occasional burnouts.
        Slightly More Aggressive Option:
        Lunati Voodoo 60101
        Duration @ .050”: 213°/219°
        Lift: .454”/.468”
        LSA: 112°
        RPM Range: 1200-5500 RPM
        Why? Adds a slightly more aggressive idle while keeping excellent low-end torque.
        Final Camshaft Recommendation for Your 350
        If you want smooth idle and great drivability: Comp XE256H
        If you want a little more sound and punch: Lunati Voodoo 60101
        Since you’re running a flat-tappet cam, don’t forget new lifters and a proper zinc-based break-in oil!
        
        If you need help ordering the right parts, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Enjoy the process—your 388 stroker build is going to be a beast when it’s ready!
      4. Ernest Adams
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Which torque convertors brands do you suggest offer the most bang per buck? My flex plate is Pioneer Automotive Industries, which has 168 teeth and a 10.75″ convertor diameter. So far, Hughes provided a quote for $675 plus s/h for a (21-25L) and Summit listed a Boss Hogg convertor (48403) at $565 which advertises the original stall range you suggested (2800-3200). What are your suggestions?
      5. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Hi Ernest,
        Thanks for following up! Since you’re looking for the best bang-for-the-buck torque converter for your 200-4R transmission with a 168-tooth flexplate and 10.75” bolt pattern, there are a few things to consider when choosing the right brand and model.
        Recommended Torque Converter Brands
        For your street-driven 388 stroker with a 2800-3200 stall range, I’d suggest looking at reputable brands that offer durability, consistent stall speeds, and good street manners. Here are a few well-known options:
        Hughes Performance – Known for high-quality street/strip torque converters with reliable stall ratings. They may be on the pricier side, but they are well-built and long-lasting.
        TCI Automotive – Offers a balance between performance and affordability. Their converters are great for both street-driven and occasional performance applications.
        B&M Racing – Provides solid street converters that maintain good torque multiplication while keeping drivability in mind.
        Boss Hogg by ACC Performance – A good budget-friendly option that still offers reliable stall speeds and smooth engagement.
        How to Choose the Right One?
        Since you’re mostly cruising with occasional spirited driving, I’d recommend sticking with a lockup converter to improve highway efficiency while still allowing strong acceleration. A non-lockup option might provide slightly better stall performance but isn’t ideal for long highway drives.
        If you want maximum reliability and performance, Hughes and TCI are excellent choices. If you’re trying to stay within a lower budget, Boss Hogg or B&M could be great alternatives.
        To ensure you get the correct fit for your specific 200-4R setup, I highly recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Our team can help you find the exact torque converter that meets your needs while ensuring compatibility with your flexplate and transmission.
        Let us know how we can help, and good luck with your 388 stroker build!
      6. Ernest Adams
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        I have a Champion 4-core aluminum radiator with a built-in transmission cooler. Is that sufficient cooling or do I need to install an external cooler?
      7. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Ernest, Your Champion 4-Core Aluminum Radiator’s Built-in Transmission Cooler Helps, But It’s Not Enough.
        Why? Higher stall converters generate more heat, and running only a radiator-mounted trans cooler can lead to higher transmission temps, especially during stop-and-go driving.
        What’s Recommended? Add a dedicated external transmission cooler for extra protection.
        Best External Transmission Coolers for Your Setup
        Budget-Friendly Option:
        JEGS 18,000 GVW Transmission Cooler JEGS Part # 555-60372
        Why? Works great for street-driven vehicles with a moderate stall converter.
        Easy to install with cooling fins for efficiency.
        There are many other options available on http://www.jegs.com, and you can’t go too big on a transmission cooler unless you drive the vehicle in below freezing temperatures.
MICHAEL MANSI

February 5, 2025

Hi,
67′ Chevelle. Do you know what stall speed I should use for the new converter?

Reply
1. Michael Mansi
  
  February 5, 2025
  
  Hi Michael,
  Thanks for reaching out to us, the right torque converter stall speed will help maximi
  
  Reply
Ken nunnery

February 1, 2025

I have 55 Chevy belair with ls 3 hot cam from factory .It has a turbo 400 gear vender overdrive with 390 gears . What is a good stall converter to use .I currently have a 2300 stall speed.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 3, 2025
  
  Hi Ken,
  Your 1955 Chevy Bel Air with an LS3 Hot Cam, Turbo 400 transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, and 3.90 gears is a strong combination for both performance and cruising. Choosing the right torque converter stall speed will help maximize power while maintaining drivability. For your setup, a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter would be ideal. Here’s why:
  The GM Hot Cam has a 219/228 duration at .050″ lift and a 112° LSA, which moves the powerband higher in the RPM range.
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall will allow the engine to get into the cam’s torque curve more quickly for stronger acceleration.
  Your TH400 transmission doesn’t have a lockup converter, so a stall too high could create excessive heat.
  The Gear Vendors overdrive keeps highway RPMs manageable, allowing you to run a slightly higher stall without sacrificing efficiency.
  Your 3.90 rear gears already help with acceleration, meaning you don’t need an excessively high stall.
  A 2800-3200 stall will provide strong launches while keeping the car comfortable for street driving.
  Why Upgrade from a 2300 Stall?
  While 2300 RPM is not bad, it’s slightly too low for your LS3 Hot Cam, which makes power higher in the rev range.
  Upgrading to 2800-3200 RPM will make the car feel more responsive and allow better power delivery off the line.
  Additional Considerations
  Since the TH400 doesn’t have a lockup feature, adding a high-performance transmission cooler is highly recommended.
  Look for TCI, Hughes Performance, or FTI (all available from JEGS) for quality LS-compatible converters.
  If you need help choosing the right converter, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. Your ’55 Bel Air is going to feel much more lively with the right stall!
  
  Reply
Chris

January 30, 2025

Hello, I have a 1994 bronco 5.0 4×4 with 4.56 gears and 34.5” tires. Curb weight about 4700 lbs. Transmission is an E4OD. Engine has AFR 165 heads, edelbrock EFI intake, and cam is custom with Intake Lift: .584″ intake Duration: 215 Centerline: 106 Exhaust Lift: .584″ exhaust Duration: 219. I drive it on the highway often, but I also enjoy riding the forest roads. I plan on installing a kenne bell that I have had sitting around. I’m wondering if replacing the converter would help it feel a bit quicker without affecting drivability? Would adding the kenne bell force a change in converter again? Thank you!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 31, 2025
  
  Hi Chris,
  With your 1994 Bronco 5.0 4×4, E4OD transmission, AFR 165 heads, Edelbrock EFI intake, a custom cam (.584″ lift, 215/219 duration), 4.56 gears, and 34.5” tires, you’ve built a great mix of performance and off-road capability. Choosing the right torque converter can certainly help improve throttle response without sacrificing drivability.
  For your current naturally aspirated setup, a 2400-2600 RPM stall converter would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Your cam (215/219 duration, 106 centerline) has a moderate profile with good low-end torque, so you don’t need an excessively high stall. A 2400-2600 stall will let the engine rev into its powerband faster while keeping highway manners intact.
  Since you frequently drive on the highway, a lockup torque converter is highly recommended. It will reduce heat and improve efficiency at cruising speeds.
  For forest road driving, this stall range will provide better low-speed response without making the transmission feel sluggish.
  Effect of 4.56 Gears & 34.5” Tires
  The 4.56 gears already help with low-end acceleration, so a mid-range stall (2400-2600) complements the gearing without over-revving at takeoff.
  Your E4OD transmission has an overdrive, so pairing a lockup converter with your gearing ensures better fuel economy on long highway trips.
  How Will the Kenne Bell Supercharger Affect This?
  Once you install the Kenne Bell, the increased torque output—especially in the low RPM range—will shift the converter requirements slightly.
  Supercharged Setup Recommendation: A 2200-2400 RPM stall may be better to harness the boost and avoid excessive converter slip.
  Many torque converter manufacturers allow re-stalling services, so you may not need a whole new converter—just a reworked stall speed.
  Additional Recommendations
  A high-capacity transmission cooler is essential to keep the E4OD running cool with a higher stall converter.
  Converter Brand Choices:
  Look at Hughes Performance for lockup converters tailored for street and off-road applications.
  Fine-Tuning After Installation:
  Custom ECU tuning may be necessary after installing the new converter and the Kenne Bell to optimize shift points and throttle response.
  For your current setup: 2400-2600 RPM lockup converter.
  After the Kenne Bell install: 2200-2400 RPM lockup converter to handle boost more efficiently.
  Lockup Feature? Yes! Crucial for highway efficiency.
  If you need help finding the right torque converter, feel free to contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. Enjoy your Bronco build—sounds like a beast!
  
  Reply
  1. Chris
    
    February 2, 2025
    
    Thank you Pete! Sounds like the stall speed recommendation won’t be too far off between setups, however if I remember adding the blower it will stall differently than one set up to stall at 24-2600 at a lower power level. Guess I need to make up my mind!
    
    Reply
Rick james

January 26, 2025

I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 with a stage 3 texas speed truck cam, 317 aluminum 6.0 heads with the proper valvetrain for the cam, cold air intake, long tube headers, stock 4L70E transmission, and 4.10 gears, what size stall would be good for daily drivability and still be able to have some fun when I want to?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 28, 2025
  
  Hi Rick,
  With your 2008 Silverado 5.3, a Stage 3 Texas Speed Truck Cam, 317 heads, and supporting mods like a cold air intake, long tube headers, a stock 4L70E transmission, and 4.10 gears, you’ve got a great setup for performance. The right torque converter stall speed will balance daily drivability with the fun factor you’re looking for.
  A 3000-3200 RPM stall converter is ideal for your setup. Here’s why:
  A Stage 3 cam typically has a more aggressive duration and lift, which moves the powerband higher in the RPM range. A stall speed of 3000-3200 RPM ensures the converter flashes into the cam’s sweet spot, providing strong launches and mid-range acceleration.
  A 3000-3200 stall is high enough to match your cam’s powerband but still low enough to be manageable for daily driving. It won’t feel overly “loose” in normal stop-and-go traffic.
  With 4.10 gears, your truck is already set up for quicker acceleration, and the 3000-3200 stall will let you put the power to the ground effectively. It also provides the responsiveness you’ll want for spirited driving while staying efficient for daily use.
  Your 4L70E’s gearing (with a 3.06 first gear) complements the 3000-3200 stall, helping the truck launch quickly while keeping shifts smooth.
  Additional Considerations:
  Higher stall converters generate more heat, so installing a high-capacity transmission cooler (like from JEGS) is essential to keep the 4L70E running cool and reliable.
  For daily drivability and highway efficiency, a lockup torque converter is highly recommended. This will ensure the converter locks at cruising speeds to minimize slippage and improve fuel economy.
  Look for quality converters from brands like TCI, as they specialize in performance-oriented converters for setups like yours. They may also offer converters tailored to Texas Speed cam specs.
  A proper tune is critical when installing a higher-stall converter. It ensures the transmission shifts at the right RPM and that everything works harmoniously with your cam and converter.
  A 3000-3200 RPM stall lockup converter will give you the best balance for daily driving and fun when you want to put your foot down. With your 4.10 gears and aggressive cam, this stall speed will allow you to maximize the performance of your Silverado without sacrificing everyday usability.
  If you need additional assistance or help finding the right torque converter, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist. Enjoy your build!
  
  Reply
Danny M Malyurek

January 20, 2025

I have a 56 chevy cameo pickup, engine is a stock built 390 hp 427. it shows 390 hp at 5200 rpm & 470 foot pounds of torque at 3600 rpm. I’ll be using a turbo 400 w/2.48 first gear and a gear vendor overdrive with .78 final drive. the rear end is 3.90 with a 29″ tall tire 235/75/15 the truck weighs 3790# The engine idles at around 750-800 rpm has a very good response with the 870 cfm Holley & 10.5 to 1 compression. What’s your recommendation on torque converter stall speed? Using the calculator I know that at 65 mph my rpm will be about 2290 when in overdrive.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 20, 2025
  
  Hi Danny,
  Your 1956 Chevy Cameo pickup with a stock 390 HP 427, Turbo 400 transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, 3.90 rear gears, 29″ tires, and a curb weight of 3,790 lbs is a well-thought-out build. Choosing the right torque converter stall speed is critical to ensure your truck performs well both on the street and at highway speeds. A 2200-2400 RPM stall speed would be ideal for your setup. Here’s why:
  Engine Characteristics:
  With 390 HP at 5200 RPM, 470 ft-lbs of torque at 3600 RPM, and a responsive throttle, a 2200-2400 RPM stall converter will ensure the engine can get into its powerband quickly while maintaining excellent street manners.
  Street-Focused Drivability:
  Since your truck is primarily a street-driven vehicle with highway cruising in mind, a 2200-2400 stall speed provides the best balance between off-the-line performance and efficiency at lower RPMs, ensuring smooth take-offs and minimal heat generation.
  Compatibility with Gearing:
  Your 3.90 rear gears and 29” tall tires create a solid setup for acceleration. A 2200-2400 RPM stall speed works harmoniously with your Turbo 400’s 2.48 first gear and Gear Vendors overdrive, ensuring quick response without unnecessary slippage at cruising speeds (around 2290 RPM at 65 mph in overdrive).
  Idle Speed and Low-End Response:
  Since your engine idles at 750-800 RPM and has excellent low-end response, a lower stall speed (2200-2400 RPM) keeps your drivability intact while still delivering improved launch performance when needed.
  Additional Considerations
  Non-Lockup Converter:
  Since the Turbo 400 is a non-lockup transmission, a quality non-lockup converter is perfect. The Gear Vendors overdrive will help maintain efficient highway cruising. Look for a converter from reputable manufacturers like Hughes Performance, B&M, or TCI, all available from JEGS. Many of these brands offer converters tailored to street performance with a specific stall range.
  Transmission Cooler:
  With any higher-stall torque converter, it’s crucial to install a good transmission cooler to protect the Turbo 400 from heat buildup and extend its lifespan, and with many options available at JEGS.
  
  A 2200-2400 RPM stall converter is the sweet spot for your truck. It will give you solid off-the-line performance to match the torque of your 427 while maintaining street-friendly manners and efficient highway cruising.
  If you need additional assistance, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Billy

January 8, 2025

Hi,
I have a ’72 Chevy Blazer 4×4 with a BBC 454. I am looking for a recommended torque converter stall and whether I need lock up or not.
The engine is a 454 30 over with flat tops, Clay Smith Hyd Roller cam (see specs below) and valve train, AFR 3610 heads, they are 265cc Oval Port with 109cc chambers and 1 3/4″ headers / 3″ exhaust. The cam manufacturer claims approx. 575HP with the current heads/pistons but I have no idea of actual HP.
The transmission is a 700R4, don’t know much more about it. Gears are 5:13 with 40″ tall tires. Vehicle weight close to 5000lbs.
The truck is just a weekend street cruiser, no off-roading and no racing but wanting to be able to light the tires up from take-off as needed!
Thank you for any information!

CLAY SMITH HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM SPECS.
Part. No. 160-3103 Grind No. HR-8486-7-CSR
Advertised Duration – 284/286
Duration @ .050 – 225/227
.200” Duration – 137/136
Lift .559/.530
Centers 103/111
LSA 107

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 10, 2025
  
  Hi Billy,
  Your ’72 Chevy Blazer 4×4 with a BBC 454, 700R4 transmission, 5.13 gears, and 40” tires is a heavy-duty setup that requires a torque converter tailored for your specific goals. Based on your build and usage, here’s a detailed recommendation:
  Recommended Torque Converter Stall Speed
  For your combination, a stall speed in the 2800-3200 RPM range would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Match to Your Camshaft:
  Your Clay Smith Hydraulic Roller Cam (225°/227° @ 0.050 and .559/.530 lift with a 107° LSA) is designed for strong mid-range torque and horsepower. A stall in the 2800-3200 range allows the engine to get into the optimal RPM range quickly, maximizing the power delivery.
  Heavy Vehicle Weight:
  With a weight of nearly 5000 lbs and 40” tires, the higher stall speed ensures your Blazer can overcome the inertia of its heavy setup, especially with tall gears like 5.13s.
  Gearing and Tires:
  Your 5.13 gears work to offset the load of the 40” tires, which is crucial for maintaining strong low-end response. The recommended stall speed complements this gearing for crisp take-offs and controlled power delivery.
  Street-Friendly:
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall converter is streetable and won’t feel overly aggressive for your weekend cruiser. It balances power and drivability perfectly for lighting up the tires on demand.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup
  With your 700R4 transmission, a lockup torque converter is recommended for the following reasons:
  Improved Efficiency:
  The lockup feature eliminates slippage at highway speeds, reducing transmission heat and improving fuel efficiency.
  Cruising Comfort:
  Since your truck is a street cruiser, the lockup ensures smoother operation and less wear on the transmission when cruising.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler:
  High-stall converters generate more heat. Install a high-capacity transmission cooler to protect your 700R4 and ensure longevity.
  Test and Tune:
  Once installed, fine-tune your setup (ignition timing, carburetor, or EFI) to ensure optimal performance with the new converter.
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall lockup converter is the sweet spot for your Blazer, delivering strong low-end performance while maintaining street-friendly manners. If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Bearded Pirate

December 30, 2024

I have a Chevy 350 with a comp cams thumpr hydraulic roller cam. It engine dynos at 450 peak torque at 5200 and peak horsepower of 470 at 6000 rpm. It’s over 400lbs of torque all the way through the rpm range from 3000 on. I’m running a Th350 trans and the car right now has a 3.08 rear gear and 29 inch tires. The car weighs about 3500 with driver. What converter stall speed do you recommend for street driving with occasional burnouts and shutting down some kid at the Red light in his Honda with the lawn mower muffler on it. Thanks for your help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 30, 2024
  
  Thank you for your question!
  With your setup—a Chevy 350 with a Comp Cams Thumpr hydraulic roller cam, 450 lb-ft of peak torque at 5200 RPM, a TH350 transmission, 3.08 rear gears, 29-inch tires, and a 3500-pound car—choosing the right torque converter stall speed is crucial for both street performance and occasional spirited driving. Here’s my recommendation:
  Recommended Torque Converter Stall Speed
  For your combination, a stall speed between 2800-3200 RPM would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Match to Cam Profile:
  The Comp Cams Thumpr cam is designed for strong mid-to-upper RPM power, and a stall converter in this range will allow the engine to launch in the sweet spot of its torque curve, giving you both low-end grunt and high-RPM power.
  Street-Friendly:
  A stall speed in the 2800-3200 range is high enough to deliver strong off-the-line performance without being overly aggressive for street driving. A converter like the Hughes Performance 2800-3200 RPM stall converter or a similar offering from B&M or TCI would work well for your setup.
  Compliments Gearing:
  With your 3.08 rear gears and 29-inch tires, you’ll maintain good drivability and highway manners while still enjoying solid launches and occasional burnouts.
  Engine Torque Curve:
  Your engine produces over 400 lb-ft of torque starting at 3000 RPM, so the recommended stall speed will ensure the converter locks up right when the engine is delivering peak performance.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler:
  High-stall converters generate more heat, so installing a high-quality transmission cooler is essential to protect your TH350 and ensure longevity.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Scott

December 16, 2024

Im am running a 620/625 solid roller cam in a 413 with nitrous in a 91 Camaro RS with th350 turbo transmission and a 411 gear with 28-10.5-15 slicks looking to run street and strip what convertors should I use

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 16, 2024
  
  Hi Scott,
  Thanks for reaching out with the details about your build—it sounds like an awesome setup! To choose the right torque converter for your 1991 Camaro RS with a TH350 transmission, solid roller cam, nitrous, and your desired street/strip use, here are some key considerations:
  Stall Speed:
  With your 620/625 lift solid roller cam and nitrous, you’ll want a stall speed that matches your engine’s powerband and nitrous activation. For a setup like yours, a converter with a 3,500-4,200 RPM stall speed is a good starting point. This will allow your engine to get into its power range quickly while still maintaining streetability.
  Nitrous Compatibility:
  Since you’re running nitrous, look for a torque converter specifically designed to handle the added torque and stress that nitrous creates. Many performance brands offer nitrous-ready converters with reinforced internals.
  Converter Diameter:
  A 9- or 10-inch torque converter is typically ideal for street/strip applications. These sizes provide the balance between quick acceleration for racing and reasonable drivability on the street.
  Transmission and Rear Gear Ratio Match:
  Your TH350 and 4.11 gears are well-suited for high-performance applications, and the 28-inch slicks will help with traction and overall gearing. A properly matched converter will complement this combination, ensuring optimal performance.
  Brand Recommendations:
  Consider high-quality converters from brands like Hughes Performance, TCI Automotive, or JEGS Brand. They offer customizable options to tailor to your specific needs, including power output, weight of the car, and driving style.
  Suggested Torque Converters:
  Hughes Performance Street/Strip Series (3500-4200 Stall): Durable and great for nitrous applications.
  TCI Breakaway or Super Street Fighter (3500+ Stall): Specifically designed for street/strip use with excellent torque multiplication.
  JEGS Performance Nitrous-Ready Converter: Affordable and reliable for high-torque setups.
  Let us know if you need help finding the right one. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545.
  Best of luck with your Camaro build!
  
  Reply
greg ganser

December 3, 2024

Hello,
Im having a 1968 WT 400 GTO engine built with a Stroker kit.The Block has been Bored .40
The cam is XTREME ENERGY 224/230 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM FOR PONTIAC 265-455
Im have a Turbo 400 Transmission and all this is going into my 1969 Pontiac Firebird convertible.
Just looking for your recomendations on a Torque Converter.
Thank You
Greg.G

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 3, 2024
  
  Hi Greg,
  Thanks for sharing the details of your exciting build! With your 1968 WT 400 GTO engine stroked and running the Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 224/230 Hydraulic Roller Cam, your setup suggests a moderate performance profile with a powerband that starts in the mid-range. Let’s factor in your Turbo 400 transmission and the vehicle being a 1969 Firebird convertible, likely with a bit more weight than a coupe. For your combination, I’d recommend a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2400-2800 RPM range. The 224/230 camshaft is designed for increased performance, with a powerband typically starting around 1600-5800 RPM. A converter in the 2400-2800 range will allow the engine to reach its optimal torque before fully engaging, improving both off-the-line acceleration and mid-range performance. The TH400 is a durable 3-speed automatic that pairs well with higher-stall converters. However, keep the stall speed moderate for a good balance of performance and street manners. The increased cubic inches from the stroker kit likely mean more low-end torque, which can tolerate a slightly higher stall without sacrificing drivability. Convertibles are generally heavier than coupes, which can slightly lower the effective stall speed. A 2400-2800 RPM stall accounts for this and ensures the engine stays responsive. Higher stall converters produce more heat, so ensure you have an upgraded transmission cooler installed to protect your TH400. If your rear-end gearing is in the 3.55 to 3.73 range, this stall range will work perfectly. If you have taller (lower numeric) gears, you might consider the lower end of the stall range. If you’d like recommendations for specific converters, JEGS offers several high-quality options from trusted brands like TCI, B&M, and Hughes Performance that fit your TH400 and performance profile. Let us know if you need help finding the right one. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545. Best of luck with your build—your Firebird is going to be a showstopper!
  
  Reply
James Blevins

November 29, 2024

I am needing a torque converter for a 420 hp / 450 lbs of torques. Engine manuf suggest 2000 – 2400.
Camshaft is a Smeding Hydraulic Roller
.495/.502 lift and 220/224 duration .
Trans is a 700r4 with 342 gears and 26” diameter tires. Wanting it to be street driveable . Going in a 79 z28.
I get all kinds of opinions on this.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 2, 2024
  
  James, Thank you for providing all the details about your setup! Based on your 420 HP engine, 450 lb-ft of torque, and the other factors you mentioned, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2000-2400 RPM range, as recommended by the engine manufacturer, should work well for your street-driven application.
  Here’s why this range fits your needs:
  Camshaft Specs: Your Hydraulic Roller camshaft (.495/.502 lift and 220/224 duration) indicates mild-to-moderate performance, making a 2000-2400 stall speed ideal for ensuring the engine operates efficiently at low speeds without excessive slippage or strain. This stall range matches the cam’s powerband and keeps drivability intact.
  Transmission and Gearing: Your 700R4 transmission and 3.42 gears are great for street driving. Combined with 26” tires, these provide a balanced final drive ratio that complements the converter’s stall speed, offering smooth acceleration and highway cruising without overheating the transmission.
  Street Drivability: Since you want the car to be streetable, a converter in this stall range will provide a noticeable improvement in low-speed performance while maintaining good drivability. Higher stall speeds might be less comfortable for street use and could generate more heat.
  Additional Considerations:
  Choose a quality torque converter from a reputable brand, as precision and durability are critical for performance and longevity.
  Ensure your transmission cooler is up to the task, as a higher stall converter generates more heat.
  It’s worth confirming the stall range with the converter manufacturer, as torque, vehicle weight, and setup can slightly shift the effective stall RPM.
  If you’d like recommendations for specific torque converter models or brands, let us know! JEGS offers a variety of converters that would work perfectly for your build.
  Please call us at 1-800-345-4545. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday.
  
  Reply
Scott Brown

October 8, 2024

I have a 79 trans am olds 403 mild cam headers h pipe dual exhaust 3:23 gears and stock quadrajet and turbo 350. I was considering the tork master 2000 or holeshot 2000. Are these a good upgrade?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  October 8, 2024
  
  Hello Scott! The torque converter stall speed needs to match several things, with the camshaft being the main engine component. If you have the part number of the camshaft, we can confirm the stall speed needed to match it. Otherwise, if you have been driving the vehicle with a stock converter and the engine doesn’t stall when you put the vehicle in gear or when you slow down to a stop, most likely the stock stall speed (usually 1800 or less) is all you need. Swapping to a 2000 stall converter speed will work, but will not necessarily help with performance. The increased slippage below 2000 rpm will generate more heat in the transmission, so a cooler is recommended. Also, anytime you are under the stall speed rpm (under light throttle or at cruise speed) you will notice the slipping as the engine speed increases more quickly than the vehicle moves, which may not be desirable to some.
  If you need additional help and would like to discuss further with a JEGS tech specialist, we are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545 and we can help you further.
  
  Reply
Ken Altizer

September 12, 2024

I’m rebuilding my dad’s 70 El Camino and I need to rebuild the transmission Turbo 400. Its motor is stock but I plan to add some modifications but nothing crazy. Do you know what stahl speed I should use for the new converter?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  September 16, 2024
  
  Ken, if the motor (including the camshaft) is stock, the stall speed should be between 1800-2000. If you put a bigger camshaft in the engine, the stall speed will need to be higher, as it needs to match the camshaft. If you have any further questions, please call us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech specialist who can help you with the correct stall speed converter. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday.
  
  Reply